Disclaimer: This post was sponsored by Missouri Tourism in partnership with Visit Hannibal . All opinions and photos are mine with the exception of one courtesy image. I participated in planning the travel itinerary’s points of interests.
Travel The Way of American Genius via MO Hwy 36 to Hannibal, Missouri, where historic landmarks, museums, local shopping, and dining draw visitors from across the globe. The riverfront town was the boyhood home of Samuel Langhorn Clemens, also known as Mark Twain.
From cruising the Mississippi River to strolling the renovated riverfront, Hannibal is the ideal place for an overnight getaway for its plethora of things to do.
UNCOVERING HANNIBAL HISTORY AT MUSEUMS & LANDMARKS
Mark Twain Cave Complex
Mark Twain Cave Tour
Touring the Mark Twain Cave (300 Cave Hallow Road) is one of the most sought-after activities in Hannibal, and for good reason. Open year-round for walk-through guided tours, it gives visitors a sense of wonder as they traverse the 3/8-mile cave, which inspired Mark Twain’s “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer.”
After watching a 15-minute introductory film about Mark Twain and the cave’s natural formations, I embarked on the tour with a guide during a scheduled time. We mainly walked level ground into the well-lit cavern, stopping to admire the dugout considered Jesse James’ hideout. The outlaw and Mark Twain each signed their names in the cave.
Perhaps the most interesting part of the tour was at its end when we chatted about the artifacts recovered from inside on display behind glass.
PRO TIP: If you’re claustrophobic, consider the tour anyway. If you’re claustrophobic, consider the tour anyway. I asked the tour guide which part of the cave tour was the most confining, and we avoided those areas. The staff is accommodating.
Mark Twain Live
Plan ahead and order tickets to the one-hour Mark Twain Live (300 Cave Hallow Road) performance to see reenactor Jim Waddell portray the famed writer. I was disappointed that my tight itinerary didn’t allow me to see the show, but I heard that Waddell’s presentation was engaging and educational.
Cave Hollow West Winery
Mark Twain Complex is home to Cave Hollow West Winery (217 Cave Hollow Road), and to my surprise, the tasting room is massive in size. The wine selection list is equally impressive, ranging from sweet to dry varieties made from grapes grown in Missouri.
The bartender did an excellent job educating customers about each one as she poured wine flights for them. I sipped a recommendable dry chardonnay, Satire, from an oversized chair while listening to streaming music. (The bartender’s Spotify playlist featuring Indie Rock was excellent.) For non-wine drinkers, a selection of beer and non-alcoholic drinks is available.
Patio seating is available outdoors. The winery hosts occasional live music on weekends, which is promoted on its Facebook page.
PRO TIP: Take a moment to look inside one of the viewfinders located in the art installation at the winery’s entrance.
The Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum
One of the most popular draws for tourists is The Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum (120 N. Main Street), where you can walk in the footsteps of Twain and immerse yourself in his life and work via highly engaging exhibits. Part of a larger complex consisting of residential properties turned museums. Purchase a ticket at the Interpretive Center, which is good for the whole day.
Twain lived in the house from nine years old until his teenage years when he left Hannibal in 1853. As a former English Literature major and teacher, I felt chill bumps as I listened to the wood floors creak underfoot and admired the home’s contents.
It’s incredible to think about a teenage Twain looking out the window and daydreaming about his future, which included his first job as a newspaper printer apprentice at age 13. It was there that he fell in love with writing.
Huckleberry Finn House
Tour the reconstructed Huckleberry Finn House on the complex’s grounds to get a sense of what it must have been like for the real Huck Finn, Tom Blakenship, to live in Hannibal. The original house was demolished in 1911, and this one was constructed based on historical photos.
PRO TIP: Look up at the wood beam and down at the original flooring to admire its architectural details.
Becky Thatcher’s House
Imagine my surprise when two children dressed in costume representing Becky Thatcher and Tom Sawyer greeted me upon arriving at the complex. Each summer, two seventh-grade local kids are selected after rounds of tests and auditions to represent Hannibal as goodwill ambassadors.
They happily let me take their photo and then asked if I would like them to perform a 30-second scene from “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer,” which I enthusiastically accepted. The show-worthy performance was the second-best part of my visit to Hannibal next to standing in Mark Twain’s home.
Becky Thatcher ‘s House (211 Hill Street), across the street from Mark Twain’s Boyhood Home, is technically two houses. It’s technically the family home of Twain’s childhood friend, Laura Hawkins, who inspired the character Becky Thatcher in “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer.”
Young visitors will love the home’s interactive exhibits made with them in mind. They choose the role of Becky, Tom, Huck, or Jim before watching videos and using educational flip boards to learn what life would have been like for them in the 1800s.
J. M. Clemens Justice of Peace Office and Grant’s Drug Store
Next door, J. M. Clemens Justice of the Peace Office (205 Hill Street) was relocated to its current site in 1955. Mark Twain’s father, John Marshall Clemens, worked like a judge, presiding over the court in this historic building. Twain was influenced by this setting and referenced it in his books.
Grant’s Drug Store was built in 1836, where it stands today. When the Twain family experienced hard times, the Clemens moved in with the Grant family, residing above the drugstore. His father, who took ill in 1847, died from pneumonia in one of the upstairs rooms.
How many references from Twain’s books can you recognize about these buildings?
Mark Twain Museum Gallery
The life’s work of Mark Twain culminates at the Mark Twain Museum Gallery, where original artifacts and family photography are displayed behind glass.
Indeed, I was happy to see Twain’s well-used tobacco pipe and a bronze casting of his hand, but I also enjoyed viewing artwork by artists like Norman Rockwell, who illustrated special editions of Twain’s books.
Jim’s Journey: The Huck Finn Freedom Center
I don’t always feel emotional while touring a museum, but I did at Jim’s Journey: The Huck Finn Freedom Center (509 N. 3rd St.). While Jim was a fictional character of Mark Twain’s book, based on Daniel Quarles, aka the “Real Jim.”
The museum’s plight is to educate others about the man and his legacy while highlighting the struggle enslaved people endured in Hannibal, Missouri, during the 19th and 20th Centuries.
As I approached the Jim’s Journey building, I was met by its director, who invited me to sit on a shaded bench and chat about our personal stories. During the guided tour of the one-room museum, I felt a sense of appreciation for her efforts to educate others about the black experience in Hannibal. I peered into cases containing handwritten letters and flipped through black-only class yearbooks.
According to Missouri State Archives, “President Abraham Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation went into effect on January 1, 1863, proclaiming enslaved people to be free in the portions of seceded states not in Union control. The proclamation did not affect Missouri’s slaveholders.”
Missouri was a pro-slavery state until 1865. Missouri ratified the Thirteenth Amendment to the U.S. Constitution ending slavery on February 6, 1865.
The museum may be small in size but the impression it makes on visitors is impactful thanks to its incredible artifacts collection, the handiwork of its director.
PRO TIP: Attend Juneteenth events at the museum or Jim’s Journey: The Huck Finn Freedom Center Birthday Celebration, a celebration of culture in September.
STROLLING HISTORIC LANDMARKS
Lover’s Leap
If you’re someone who seeks sweeping panoramic views, trek to Lover’s Leap (1132 MO-79) . The viewpoint overlooks a bluff on five acres of park. A historical marker details The Legend of Lovers Leap about an Indian Brave and his princess who jumped for it to escape certain death by pursuers. The story was made into a movie released in 2022.
Mark Twain Memorial Lighthouse
The Mark Twain Memorial Lighthouse (499 Main Street) is a majestic sight. Towering in bright white atop Cardiff Hill, Tom Sawyer’s and Huckleberry Finn’s play area, it offers views of Hannibal and the Mississippi River.
PRO TIP: Drive to the lighthouse parking versus climbing hundreds of stairs, something I wished I’d done after the third set of stairs ascending from downtown Hannibal.
EXPLORING PUBLIC ART DOWNTOWN
Tom & Huck Statue
The Tom and Huck Statue, located at the base of Cardiff Hill and viewable from Main Street, isn’t just any statue. It was installed in 1926, and it’s considered one of the earliest known statues honoring fictional characters. Tom and Huck were best friends who witnessed a murder and later tried to prove the innocence of the wrongly accused man.
PRO TIP: Stop into Friendship Brewing Company across the street and share an ale with your travel bestie.
Mural Tour
I love it when a destination communicates its story with art. In Hannibal, artists painted 26 murals, giving the riverside town the title “City of Murals.” As you walk downtown, you’ll see many of them, but some are tucked away behind Main Street buildings or worth driving to see.
Unlike some locations, Hannibal does a beautiful job of maintaining the murals, keeping most of them vibrant and eye-catching. Click this link to locate the address of each one.
PRO TIP: Locate the Molly Brown mural (323 N. Main) to learn about Hannibal’s second most famous citizen. She advocated for women’s rights and became the first woman to run for Congress in 1914.
SAVORING THE LOCAL DINING SCENE
Java Jive
Don’t you love a café that serves breakfast all day? At Java Jive (211 N. Main Street), locals gather inside at tables and meet up over coffee and made-from-scratch pastries at patio tables to discuss the day’s happenings. The coffee shop is far more than an early-morning breakfast destination; it also serves deli sandwiches and wraps for lunch and dinner.
I was struck by the café’s size and its menu offerings, which include nutritious meals for health-minded customers. The overnight oats parfait made with fruit and nuts complemented a hot vanilla latté, a nice alternative to a plate of eggs and potatoes.
Java Jive is probably one of the best coffee shops I’ve visited during my travels. It offers a variety of menu items and extensive retail selection, ranging from books with quirky titles to amusing socks and T-shirts. It’s also a shopping destination.
PRO TIP: Bring the kids to enjoy a scoop of 12 flavors of hand-dripped ice cream served in waffle cones or cake cones.
Mark Twain Dinette
Have you tasted a Maid-Rite loose meat sandwich? The Mark Twain Dinette (400 N. 3rd Street) is known for serving them with homemade cane root beer in a frosty mug. Sure, they serve burgers and hot dogs, but you must try the famous $3.85 sandwich in Hannibal, a local tradition since 1942.
I chose homemade onion rings, which arrived at the table hot from the fryer and with chili mayo. I dipped the sandwich in the chili mayo for added flavor. After lunch, I paid my bill at the customer service counter adjacent to a gift store selling Mark Twain Dinette merchandise, puzzles, and games.
PRO TIP: I asked my server what her favorite meal when on break at work. She recommended the Smoked Pork Sandwich with barbecue sauce.
KICKING BACK WITH A CRAFT BEER
Friendship Brewing Company
“Friends Making Beer, Beer Making Friends” is the motto of Friendship Brewing Company (422 N. Main Street), which is appropriate considering how friendly the staff is when they serve you a pint of craft beer. I had difficulty deciding which one of the beers I wanted to enjoy from the 24 taps behind the bar, and the bartender was great about offering a sample and describing each one.
I settled on two five-ounce pours of Mother Clucker Cream Ale and IPA No Shirt No Problem (the most popular IPA on tap). The smell of smoked meat permeated the room as I sat sipping each one from a sunlit table indoor. I wasn’t hungry, or I would have gladly joined everyone else in ordering meals from Sidekick BBQ & Sweets’ pick-up window.
SEEING THE SIGHTS FROM THE RIVER
Mark Twain Riverboat Dinner Cruise
I wanted to take the Mark Twain Riverboat Dinner Cruise to experience Hannibal truly and appreciate its history as a river town. For 25 years, Captain Steve and his wife Sandy have welcomed visitors aboard to show them the beauty of the Mississippi River, the same river Mark Twain described as “a powerful natural force that constantly changes the landscape along its banks.”
The experience started with staff snapping my photo in front of a nautical backdrop before ushering me aboard and to my reserved table. Musician Tim Hart played acoustic guitar while guests enjoyed drinks and views of the river. After the captain announced dinner was ready, each table was invited to the buffer for a chicken breast or beef-tips dinner with a choice of sides.
As the sun set, the musician took requests to play cover songs, and diners indulged in brownie dessertsFor me, the best part of the river cruise was enjoying the natural scenery and taking photos of the sunset from the boat’s bow.
We listened to The Beatles and Bob Seger cover songs as the boat returned to the dock after the two-hour excursion. Guests disembarked at their pace via the gift shop. And the photo they took of me? It was available for a $10 purchase alongside others on a wall. Watch a video of my riverboat experience.
PRO TIP: If you prefer to enjoy a drink from the bar with dinner, order it at the bar. Cash is preferred, but they also accept credit cards.
RESTING IN STYLE AT A LOCAL HOTEL
Country Inn & Suites
I can’t think of anything I enjoy more than unwinding after a long day at a welcoming, clean, and stylish hotel. Country Inn & Suites (4000 Market Street) provided what I needed, plus extra amenities, including an indoor heated pool and fitness center. I took advantage of high-speed Wi-Fi to get some work done on my laptop before calling it a night.
Located about a 10-minute drive from downtown Hannibal, I recommend staying there if you’re seeking comfortable accommodations, whether traveling solo or with your family. The family dog is welcome, too.
6 FESTIVALS WORTH EXPERIENCING
Hannibal is a happening town hosting festivals of some kind of another every month. In true form, many events are thematic and engaging activities the entire family would enjoy.
Twain on Main (May) takes place during Memorial Day weekend featuring over 100 artisans and authors selling their products. Expect a food court and live entertainment.
National Tom Sawyer Days (July) Inspired by Twain’s books, the four-day festival is primarily for families who want to participate in high-energy activities. Kids will enjoy hands-on games and a carnival. A fireworks display from the banks of the Mississippi River concludes the festivities on July 4.
Big River Steampunk Festival (August) is the largest of its kind in the nation. Celebrating a decade of festivities focused on Victorian-era entertainment, attendees are encouraged to purchase an all-access pass and dress in costume (top hats and gloves encouraged).
Folklife Festival (October) is a celebration of the town’s history featuring craftsman, artisans, and musical performances. Over 100 exhibitors and food vendors draw a massive crowd for the two-day festival in historic downtown. Wear walking shoes.
Mark Twain’s Birthday Bash (November) recognizes what would have been the writer’s 190th birthday on November 30 with old-fashioned fun for all ages all day.
Victorian Festival of Christmas (December) transports visitors back in time for a Victorian-themed schedule of events. Order a hot chocolate and then walk downtown to admire decorated storefronts or choose a horse drawn carriage ride.
BONUS THINGS TO DO
I ran out of time before I could tour Rockcliffe Mansion (1000 Bird Street), a Gilded Age Mansion with 30 restored rooms open for public tours. Additionally, I’d like to return for some retail therapy shopping at the downtown district’s specialty stores with a stop at Becky’s Old Fashioned Ice Cream Parlor & Emporium (318 N. Main Street).
MORE PLACES TO DISCOVER ON HIGHWAY 36 THE WAY OF AMERICAN GENIUS
If you’re headed west on Highway 36 from Hannibal on The Way of American Genius, take my advice and stop for good times in Marceline (Walt Disney’s boyhood home, Laclede (Gen. John J. Pershing’s boyhood home), Chillicothe (Home of Sliced Bread), and St. Joseph (Pony Express). Driving east? Check out the St. Charles, Missouri’s restaurant scene.
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