walking tour

7 Ways To Explore Culture in Kansas City, Kansas

November 17, 2022 by Vanessa Whiteside Leave a Comment

Disclosure: Visit Kansas City Kansas sponsored this post in partnership with Midwest Travel Network. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

Kansas City, Kansas, offers visitors an abundance of cultural experiences because of its diverse community. Immigrants journeyed to the heart of America, looking for a future for themselves and their families. The city’s cultural traditions and food scene are rich with heritage. Plan an overnight stay to take advantage of authentic experiences, from following The Legacy Trail to feasting on flavorful food.

I visited the city with a group of travel writers to the area to experience the city’s culture first-hand. How many of the following experiences will you check off the list?

1. VOLER – THIEVES OF FLIGHT

If you’ve witnessed aerial acrobatics and wondered if you were capable of such feats, Voler – Thieves of Flight (558 Lowell Ave.) is your chance to find out. Part of the Eastern European Journey, the academy teaches students a combination of aerial dance and acrobatics using ceiling-suspended silks. Located in a one-time Russian Orthodox Church, instructors guide students step-by-step through maneuvers to lift themselves into the air.

voler instructor — The facility was once a Greek Orthodox women’s church with a speakeasy in the basement that served vodka.

Although I had to sit out during the class, I watched as my travel friends warmed up by stretching and conducting breathing exercises. Soon, they were standing with colorful silk fabric in hand learning the basics of foot locks and climbing. It was a major test of strength and flexibility.

Do you think you’ve got what it takes to test your balance and core strength? Voler – Thieves of Flight Voler offers private group classes and ongoing classes on a weekly basis. To sign up for an Aerial Silks session, click here.

2. VIETNAM CAFÉ

Vietnam Café (39324 Rainbow Blvd) is the story of success. The new location opened its doors on May 2022 to serve loyal customers heaping bowls of pho, curry, and rice platters. I ordered a large bowl of piping hot pho with beef without hesitation. It arrived with a side plate of Thai basil and sprouts to add to the pho at my discretion.

pho — Pho is a broth-based soup with noodles, protein, and vegetables.

Our table’s conversation was lively between bites of shared appetizers and dinner entreés. I learned that Vietnamese families represent a large portion of the community having immigrated to the area at the end of the Vietnam War. Further study taught me that Vietnamese refugees to the American Great Plains sought manufacturing or other jobs in Kansas City.

I encourage you to dine at Vietnam Café to try a food you’ve never tried while learning more about the culture. View the restaurant’s Facebook page for details.

3. Three Bees Pottery & Coffee Shop

I can’t think of a better way to start a day of exploring Kansas City, Kansas than dining at a locally-owned coffee shop. Oh, wait! Yes, I can. Add authentic tamales and it’s way better. Three Bees Pottery & Coffee Shop (925 Southwest Blvd) is a quaint eatery specializing in homemade meat and vegan tamales paired with gourmet coffee drinks.

If you’ve not enjoyed tamale, you can expect shredded chicken, pork, or beef in sauce wrapped in masa inside a corn husk. The dish is representative of traditional food brought to the states by Mexican immigrant populations. Masa is a soft dough made from ground corn that takes on a slightly sweet yet savory flavor.

tamales — The new owners of Three Bees Pottery and Coffee Shop celebrated the business’s one-year anniversary in September 2022.

I ordered a Dirty Horchata served hot to accompany my meal. A cinnamon vanilla rice drink with a double espresso was served in a vibrant handmade coffee cup. The interior of the cafe is visually stunning as it is filled with colorful pottery from Mexico. All of it is marked for sale, so keep your eyes peeled for a gem to take home with you.

View the coffee shop’s hours and menu via its Facebook page.

4. The Legacy Trail

Visit Kansas City created The Legacy Trail, a mapped-out journey used for self-guided audio tours throughout the city. At each location, users of the app simply tap the screen to play back narrated stories that explain the site’s cultural significance. Latino, Eastern European, Black Heritage, Indigenous People, and Modern Immigrants are referenced on the trail.

Kansas City’s agricultural roots are recognized by statues located in the city’s West Bottoms neighborhood. Stockyards Brewing Co. is a sought-after steakhouse and taproom in the area.

To access The Legacy Trail, visit this website. Complete all five journeys and you can win a KCK t-shirt and your name will be included on the KCK Legacy Trail Wall of Fame.

Our group visited the Central Avenue Betterment Association (CABA) (1303 Central Ave.) Anthology of Argentine Mural, and Eagles Nest. At CABA, we learned how a small staff works diligently with the help of community sponsors to support diverse and inclusive programs and events like the Day of the Dead Celebration. On the day of our visit, staff member and volunteers hurriedly prepared for the Dia De Los Muertos parade. A makeup artist was on-hand to apply face paint to Catrinas who planned to walk in the parade. When our bus stopped at the Anthology of Argentine Mural (30th & Woodland), my jaw dropped open in shock. The massive mural is a city block long and uses vivid imagery to tell the tale of the Argentine neighborhood and its history. The narrative story sets the scene complete with natural sounds like railroad trains, industrialization, and rainfall. Its imagery will give you pause and like me, may evoke an emotional response.

We drove to a historic two-story stone building near railroad tracks and a baseball field, which has served as the headquarters for American Legion Post 213 “Eagles Nest” since the 1940s.The nondescript building was constructed because the community needed a place where Latinos could gather without discrimination. In the early 1900s, it served as a Methodist mission and school. Years later, the outside of the building contrasts greatly with the interior’s design which features a sports bar where locals gather to enjoy game day.

5. Jarocho’s Pescados y Mariscos

Continue the cultural journey to a cozy spot where high-quality Mexican seafood is served, Jarocho’s (719 Kansas Ave.). You can’t miss the building’s brightly painted facade featuring murals with ocean scenes.

seafood dinner — Jarocho’s is known for serving Pacific-style Mexican seafood.

It’s a hidden gem, or the kind of restaurant locals know and dare not tell others about because then their go-to places become crowded. Bring your appetite and prepare to be wowed by fresh seafood dishes like Shrimp Chipotle, Fire Grilled Trout, and Seafood Paella. They didn’t win Best Seafood and Best Mexican food by Feast magazine for nothing.

6. Day of the Dead Celebration

Dia De Los Muertos translated to Day of the Dead is a time of celebration for the Latino community in Kansas City, Kansas. The day remembers friends and family members who have died and the life they lived. In fact, the Mexican holiday dates back hundreds of years.

It’s one of the most festive celebrations I’ve attended. Vendors line both sides of Central Avenue offering the best in gifts and authentic Mexican food dinners. The smell of freshly grilled meat lingers in the air.As you walk the route, you encounter live bands performing Latin pop and regional Mexican music in front of small groups of onlookers. Women dressed as Catrinas wear makeup resembling skeletons ad flowing gowns with hats or elaborate headdresses.I was asked if I wanted to ride in the parade inside a decorated bus that played authentic music (see pictured). “Yes, of course!” From the bus, we threw candy to eager children and waved at families. Dancers led our path down the street. Everyone was in good spirits laughing, eating authentic food, dancing, and singing. The festival is one you don’t want to miss.

7. URBAN HIKE THROUGH STRAWBERRY HILL & DOWNTOWN KCK

The following morning, our group enjoyed coffee and pastries at Splitlog Coffee Co. (548 Central Ave.) before meeting our Urban Hikes KC tour guide. The plan? To walk a 4.5-mile hike through the city’s Eastern European neighborhood along the Legacy Trail and learn about the immigrants who founded businesses and churches in the area.

Strawberry Hill Mural — This mural features Strawberry Hill’s founder, Mathias Splitlog, a Wyandotte Indian who arrived in 1843. He was an entrepreneur who established the first flour mill. Fun Fact: He spoke seven languages.

The guided tour is the best way to explore the city’s history while learning in-depth historical facts about each destination. While the route may be long, the pace is moderate and there are only a couple of steep streets – and it offers some of the best views of the Kansas City skyline.

An Urban Hikes KC tour guide discussed — JT Daniels, a local artist, painted the mural on the side of The Merc. During the urban tour, the guide addressed the difference between a “food desert” and a “food swamp.”

From Russian Hill to Strawberry Hill and downtown Kansas City to the Wyandotte Native American National Burial Ground, the guide highlights the stories of ethnic groups. It is the most effective way to learn about the city’s culture.

Why is the neighborhood called Strawberry Hill? After the great flood of 1903, residents of the area discovered strawberries growing on the hill. The fruit is also considered sacred to the Wyandotte tribe people.

A number of churches were erected during the time of European immigration to the area. St. Mary’s Episcopal Church, built in 1890, is the oldest Catholic parish in Kansas City. At present day, it is a parish that is known for its cultural diversity. A community-driven garden sits in its shadow where fruits and vegetables are grown and donated to residents.

community garden — Actor Eric Stonestreet, originally from Kansas City, donated the windmill to the project. He is best known for his appearance on the TV show, Modern Family.

I appreciate learning about the hard-working families who made the location what it is today, including the Loose Brothers who opened the Takhoma Biscuit Company. The name was updated to Sunshine Biscuit Company in 1946 and was considered the largest bakery in the city. Keebler eventually bought it, and now it is owned by Kellogg’s.

Did you know that 85% of the world’s Cheez-It crackers are produced in Kansas City?

Time permitting, you should plan extra time to take a guided tour of Strawberry Hill Museum and Cultural Center (720 N. 4th St.) where you can learn about the ethnic groups that settled in the area. Each room of the mansion built in 1887 tells the story of the city’s earliest residents. Note: You can buy tickets to the Olde World Christmas Tour during the holidays.

St. John’s Park, across the street from the museum, has a top-notch view of the city’s skyline. Bring your dog! A grassy area is dedicated to four-legged family members.

I have no doubt that you’ll appreciate Kansas City’s traditions and food scene as much as I did. To truly get to know a place, you have to understand its history. Of course, these seven cultural experiences merely scratch the surface of Kansas City’s can’t-miss destinations. Endless learning awaits. Take a moment to downtown The Taco Trail app and The Legacy Trail app created by Visit Kansas City, Kansas prior to your visit. Let this guide and the mobile apps help you enjoy an immersive cultural tour of the city – an unforgettable experience.

If you appreciated this post, you may also want to check out a second blog post “Essential Stops in Kansas City, Kansas” that features more attractions, restaurants, and notable shopping destinations.

Lecompton, Kansas: A Charming Town With Historic Landmarks

November 23, 2021 by Vanessa Whiteside Leave a Comment

Disclosure: Kansas I-70 Association sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

One aspect of travel that motivates me to take to the road is to learn about an area’s history. Take Exit 197 from Kansas I-70 to Lecompton, Kansas and you have arrived at the Birthplace of the Civil War and the Territorial Capital of Kansas from 1855-1861.

Located between Topeka and Lawrence, the quaint town is home to a friendly community that welcomes tourists interested in learning about its impact on American history. In addition to historical buildings and tours, travelers will appreciate the downtown area for its charming small businesses.

During my visit, I was met by the town’s top historian, Paul, who took me on a guided tour of Lecompton’s landmarks and businesses. It’s not every day that your tour guide is dressed as a reenactor or as the infamous Samuel Jones, a Douglas County sheriff who helped Lecompton play a role in the Bleeding Kansas conflict. This was going to be fun.

BREAKFAST

Paul joined me at Aunt Netters Cafe (336 Elmore) as I dined on Country Fried Steak and Eggs. The restaurant is the sole gathering spot for locals and people passing through town during the breakfast and lunch hours. Known for serving homestyle food and gourmet baked goods, the place was buzzing with conversation.

The meal was scrumptious and the menu prices were reasonable for the portion sizes. If you’re passing through northeast Kansas in route to Lawrence or Bonner Springs, stop by for a plate of pancakes, biscuits and sausage gravy, or breakfast sandwich. The lunch menu is just as appetizing. (View the cafe’s hours here.)

As Paul introduced me to the history of Lecompton, he pointed out the wall decorated with the town’s history “The Lecompton Swindle”. I quickly surmised that Lecompton was a town prideful about making its mark in history dating back to its founding in 1854.

With breakfast complete, we set out on our trek through town.

EARLY DAYS

The town was originally named Bald Eagle (yes, that’s right!) but was later renamed Lecompton by a judge. It sits on the south bank of the Kansas river making it a prime place to view eagles nesting along its banks.

CONSTITUTION HALL

Dressed as the pro-slavery sheriff Samuel J. Jones, Paul led us to Constitution Hall (319 Elmore St.) directly across the street from the cafe. A visit to the town is not complete without immersing yourself in its history and this should be the first site on your self-guided tour.

Constitution Hall is listed as a National Landmark, Kansas Historic Site and was a finalist as one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas. Built in 1856, it was the site where the Lecompton Constitution was written by pro-slavery advocates.

The famous document was rejected in the 1858 election. To learn more about how Kansas was eventually admitted to the Union as a free state on January 29, 1861, visit this website page. A copy of the actual document is on display in the hall.

The Lecompton Constitution caused a major rift between members of the Democratic Party. Word spread to the White House. You can read more about the document and the Lincoln-Douglas debates inside Constitution Hall.

Because of the conflict that took place at the site, it is said that Lecompton was the original Birthplace of the Civil War. To take a deep dive into the state’s history during this time, visit the Kansas Historical Society’s site here.

As we walked on the creaky wood floors, I learned that the hall is the oldest wood-frame building in the state still standing in its original location. The sunlight beamed through the windows. We were standing where Kansas history took place. The Kansas Supreme Court once met upstairs. Some of the artifacts on display include the box used for fake ballots, an office safe, and a land office desk owned by Daniel Boone’s grandson.

If you’d like to visit Constitution Hall, it is open to individuals and small groups Wednesday-Sunday. Adult admission is $3. I found the employee on-site to be extremely knowledgeable and willing to answer questions. I’d recommend at least 30 minutes for a tour.

If you want to visit with a large group, a courtesy call to museum staff at least two weeks in advance is appreciated. View the hall’s hours here.

LECOMPTON CITY JAIL

Sitting in the shadow of Constitution Hall is the old Lecompton City Jail (315 Elmore St.) The tiny, one-room structure was originally built by Sheriff Jones.

Of course, it was fitting that Paul had a key to the jail. He ushered me inside. After a few seconds of standing in the musty dark room, I was ready to exit. There was very little sunlit peeking through the iron window bars.

The story goes that Jones, a pro-slavery sheriff, was shot in the back by free state forces. He helped in the effort to burn down Lawrence, Kansas in 1856. His original tombstone was moved from Las Cruces, New Mexico, and sits on display in front of the jail.

TERRITORIAL CAPITAL MUSEUM

Another important stop on the tour was Territorial Capital Museum (640 E. Woodson), a towering limestone multi-story structure. Did you know that Lecompton was the state’s capital until Topeka earned the title in 1861? The 1855 legislature voted for it. The town was a bustling center for political discourse.

The museum sits on the former 13-acre Lecompton capital square district and was constructed in 1855. The budget was $50,000, but eventually, the money ran out. When antislavery legislators gained control of the territorial legislature, the location of Kansas’ capital was moved to Topeka. This action was detrimental to the town. Later, the building became known as Lane University where reportedly seventy-five co-ed students studied there.

Now, the building serves as a museum that is open to visitors who want to come inside view rooms of historical artifacts. Paul wanted me to experience history first-hand by attaching a ball and chain to my boots. The 20lb. weight, dating back to the early 1900s made by Leavenworth prisoners, was nearly impossible to walk with when attached. Other museum artifacts included Civil War weapons, documents, and an extensive collection of the town’s memorabilia.

Did you read the blog post I wrote about Quantrill’s Raid in Lawrence, Kansas? Prior to the Civil War, feuds between pro-slavery Missourians and antislavery Kansans raged erupting in Lawrence in 1863. Confederate leader William Quantrill led a band of 400 men on horseback to attack the men and teenage boys. They burned homes and businesses to the ground.

During my tour, every inch of the space was decorated with 200+ Christmas trees, an annual tradition that attracts tourists to town from November 1-January 1. Each tree was adorned with Victorian, antique, and themed ornaments. It’s well worth stopping at the museum if only to see the holiday trees, a sight to behold.

I’d recommend devoting about an hour of your time in town to tour the museum. Admission is free, but a $3 donation is kindly accepted. If you have questions about the artifacts in the cases, a volunteer is on hand to answer them for you. View the museum’s hours here.

DEMOCRATIC HEADQUARTERS

I followed Paul in my car to the Democratic Headquarters (640 E. Woodson Ave.). A simple limestone building, it was once a cabin/meeting space for the Democratic Party from 1854-1861. Men discussed political issues and planned strategies there.

In later years, it was used as a railroad pay station by the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad. Today, it is maintained by the Lecompton Historical Society and houses furnishings one might have used during the pre-Civil War era. When you stand inside and look out the windows, you can almost imagine boat traffic on the river. A beautiful location, it’s not uncommon to see eagles flying in the area during fall, winter, and spring.

OTHER INTERESTING PLACES TO DISCOVER

EMPTY NESTER’S WINERY

Aside from hosting history seekers, Lecompton is home to several businesses including Empty Nester’s Winery (338 Elmore St.). Owned and operated by a husband and wife team, they serve a variety of fruit wines. Surprisingly, the wines didn’t taste as sweet as I expected. Paul and I sipped on peach wine slushes during our tour of the facility.

While Vickie prepped pumpkins for a future wine, Troy told that it takes six months from fermentation to bottling to produce a taste-worthy wine. Opened in January 2021, visitors can choose from four dry wines and 12 semi-sweet wines for a tasting flight.

When they’re not busy making wine or socializing with customers, they also make preserves, jams, and jellies available for sale in the tasting room.

Empty Nester’s Winery focuses on quality wine and excellent customer service. They host game night on Thursdays and invite a food truck to park out front on occasion. To view the winery’s hours and learn about entertaining events, view the Facebook page.

BALD EAGLE MERCANTILE

You can find anything and everything for sale at Bald Eagle Mercantile (336 Elmore St.). The search for the perfect something to bring home is a part of the fun. The shelves are stocked with timeless gifts and items you didn’t know you needed until you saw them.

Open since 2010, shoppers are greeted by Kathy and her employees with a warm smile and helped them find “goods for the journey.” It’s only appropriate that Kathy owns a store in the heart of Lecompton since she is a descendant of Albert G. Boone, one of the town’s founders. He was also a shopkeeper.

The store hosts flea market events on Elmore Street as well as Fabric Fridays. Kathy said she has plans to expand her business and bring in more sellers. Stay up-to-date on Bald Eagle Mercantile happenings here.

C&C CLOTHING/CLAYMAMA’S ART WORKSHOP

Next door to Bald Eagle Mercantile is Claymama’s Art Workshop and C&C Clothing (338 Elmore St.) store under the same roof. When the owner isn’t in the studio creating beautiful jewelry, she is greeting customers in the retail space. The store is filled with consignment clothing and apparel for women of all sizes.

Shoppers are surrounded by walls of colorful artwork and an abundance of handcrafted jewelry for sale. Rings resemble twisted metalwork. Earrings made from leather and beads dangle on display. Clay pots hold earrings and bracelets designed with care.

If you’re not able to make it to Lecompton, you can still shop the boutique online. C&C Clothing sells items live via Facebook every Thursday at 7pm. Never miss a moment of the shopping fun by following the Facebook page here.

LECOMPTON MURAL

Don’t leave town without seeing the fantastic mural painted by Perry-Lecompton High School graduate, Rick Wright. Its vibrant colors showcase symbols that represent the town’s history dating back to 1858. The Latin motto in the eagle’s grasp reads, “Born of the Popular Will.”

Completed last June, “Resilience” is a 60′ mural funded by donations to Lecompton Community Pride. Wright recently finished a painting of the former Lecompton High School, which is on display at the entrance to the building. Visit Wright’s TikTok page to watch his painting in progress.

LUNCH

NOTE: As of September 9, 2022, Kroeger Country Meats no longer operates as a retail walk-in business. The family retired.

As our tour of Lecompton was wrapping up, Paul had one more stop for me. I followed him to a building on the edge of town, Kroeger Country Meats (505 Eisenhower Memorial Dr.).

The family-owned business was started by the father, who paid his way through college by cutting meat.

The butcher shop is well known in the county and beyond for its high-quality meats. Two generations of Kroegers run and operate the store on a daily basis, which is necessary to keep up with business. The store attracts passersby and tourists from outside of town who make special trips to Kroegers to stock up on fresh-cut meats, jerky, and bulk and link-style sausage.

Other visitors stop by to indulge in delicious burgers served fresh to order for each customer. When you visit, simply walk up to the counter meat counter and place your order. Once it’s finished, you can add burger toppings from the self-service salad bar nearby. My single cheeseburger was scrumptious. It alone was worth stopping at Kroegers to enjoy.

Serving customers since 1984, the multi-generational butcher shop uses only Boston butts to make sausage. You can expect to find new sausage varieties as they are always fine-tuning recipes.

When the butcher told me that Kroegers’ meats appeared on the chef-prepared menus within the county, including some of my favorite restaurants in Lawrence, I walked straight to the reach-in refrigerator to select frozen sausage to bring home.

Kroeger has partnerships with breweries and the beer is used in the sausage-making process. (Note: I prepared my sausage links, made with Freestate Brewing Company’s Garden Party Lager, once I returned home. They were some of the best sausages I’ve ever tasted.) To view the store’s hours, visit the Facebook page.

Bulk style sausage $5.99/lb, Link style sausage $8.99/lb

My experience in Lecompton was a delightful one. I was sad to say goodbye to Paul and the residents of the town. As I took to the highway to head for home, I knew that I would be back. I would return with friends or family next time because they need to experience historic Lecompton “a small town with a big history.”

Did you learn something new about Kansas history? Perhaps you’ve already visited Lecompton? Share your comments below. I’d love to hear from you.

Lawrence, Kansas: A Historical Tour

August 23, 2021 by Vanessa Whiteside Leave a Comment

Disclosure: Unmistakably Lawrence sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

Having lived at one time in my life in Lawrence, Kansas, I returned for a visit to study the town’s history and to experience the events surrounding Civil War on the Border. The experience helped me to better understand how significant figures in the state’s history impacted the town during a time referred to as Bleeding Kansas. Prior to the Civil War, feuds between pro-slavery Missourians and anti-slavery Kansans raged erupting in Lawrence in 1863. Confederate leader William Quantrill led a band of 400 men on horseback to attack the men and teenage boys. They burned homes and businesses to the ground. Some totals report that over 150 people were killed. Those who escaped death hid in cornfields or underground. Their accounts of that day tell the story.

Today, Lawrence is a thriving town having rebuilt itself on more than one occasion from conflict. The college town is home to the University of Kansas. Downtown businesses include eclectic eateries, breweries, boutique shopping, taverns, and bars. But many of the town’s original buildings remain as a testament to the town’s will to survive, including The Eldridge Hotel.

LODGING

THE ELDRIDGE HOTEL

When Explore Lawrence invited me to stay overnight in Lawrence to learn more about the town’s historical value, I jumped at the opportunity. I had been inside The Eldridge Hotel on more than one occasion and even hosted my college graduation there, but I had never experienced it as a hotel guest.

Originally built in 1855 and called the Free State Hotel, it was one of the tallest most beautiful buildings in town. Unfortunately, its fate was doomed. In 1856, the hotel was burned to the ground by pro-slavery forces. Later rebuilt by Colonel Eldridge it was destroyed again in an 1863 attack. Quantrill and his men rode into Lawrence and burned much of the town to the ground. Like a phoenix, the hotel rose from the ashes when it was rebuilt again.

The hotel is considered haunted. Hotel employees have seen Colonel Eldridge’s ghost sitting in an original hotel chair in storage. A photograph taken in the lobby shows a ghostly spirit standing in the lobby’s elevator. Room 506 is considered to be the most haunted guest room in the hotel and it is considered the colonel’s favorite spot. Of course, I requested room 506 for my overnight stay. Having lived in a haunted house on Kentucky Street during my college years, I was prepared to experience unexpected noises and the like. Later in the evening after returning to the room and just in time to escape a raging thunderstorm outside, the ceiling fan’s lights flickered multiple times. Was it his ghost? The next morning, I discovered that my new laptop’s battery was dead. I had charged it to full power before arriving at the hotel. Was it the ghost’s way of letting me know its presence? I’ll let you decide. Needless to say, I didn’t sleep soundly that night.

In 1932, the Bonnie and Clyde Gang stayed at the hotel and later robbed the bank across the street. They fled across state lines without issue. According to an article on The Eldridge’s website, the gang made off with over $33,000. You can read more about the hotel’s history and ongoing renovations here.

Today, the hotel continues to serve as a venue for guests who want to celebrate weddings, reunions, and private gatherings for up to 180 guests. The ballroom pictured below includes original crown molding, archways with windows, and crystal chandeliers. The hotel’s concierge wanted to show us other rooms of historical significance in the hotel, so he took us to a few private areas not open to the public.

We entered what looked to be a boiler room of sorts that included a narrow, steep staircase without a railing. It was time to scale the stairs to see Colonel Eldridge’s favorite chair first-hand. I climbed the stairs steadying myself with my hands upon each stair. There it was! A dusty ornate chair that many employees say they’ve seen Eldridge sitting on smoking his pipe. Would you want to see the chair for yourself?

All in all, my stay at The Eldridge was exceptional. The hotel stay went above and beyond to cater to my curiosity about the hotel’s history by taking me on a guided tour and telling me the background story of many of the black and white photographs hanging in the lobby. The hotel bar staff was hospitable and welcoming. My room, although haunted, offered stunning views of downtown Lawrence on the anniversary eve of Quantrill’s Raid on Lawrence. By all accounts, it was a delightful stay and one that I’d recommend anyone experience.

HISTORIC TOURS

BLEEDING KANSAS BUS TOUR

On Saturday afternoon, we gathered with others at Watkins Museum of History (1047 Massachusetts St.) for the Bleeding Kansas Bus Tour. Our first stop took us to the Robert H Miller Home and Farm (111 E. 19th St.) in east Lawrence. Miller was an Underground Railroad conductor who hid runaway slaves on his 160 acres property. Miller, a successful farmer, built the home in 1858. The Oregon Trail lies directly in front of the home making it a high-traffic area. Slaves were trying to make their way to freedom to Topeka and other northern territories like Canada. The Millers provided them temporary shelter and food.

Quantrill and his men rode up to the house with 400 men on horseback on his way from the town of Franklin to raid Lawrence on August 21, 1863. He was recognized by one of the Miller daughters. She greeted him. He and one of his men most likely stayed overnight at the home week’s prior when on a scouting mission. Quantrill and his men acknowledged the daughter and then left. They killed a nearby cow farmer and made their way to Lawrence to kill more men. Why didn’t Quantrill kill the Miller’s? Perhaps because they remembered them fondly from an earlier encounter.

Now, the home is a private residence but the homeowners often invite guided tours to visit the property.

The second stop on the bus tour took us to the Grover Barn (2819 Stonebarn Terrance), an underground railroad station on the south side of the town built in 1858. When Abolitionist leader John Brown made his final journey through Kansas, the Grover Barn is where he stopped.

During our tour, an actor playing the role of John Brown told us the story of the Grover Barn. It was there that Brown traveled with a slave family on their way to find safety and freedom. The limestone barn is considered to be one of the best-preserved Underground Railroad sites and is listed on the Lawrence Register of Historic Places.

Take a look at the walls in the photo below. The crudeness of the limestone barn’s constructions is awe-inspiring. I encourage you to visit the historic structure to see the hand-hewn wood beams up close. In 1980, the City of Lawrence repurposed the building to use as a fire station and later for storage purposes. Today, the preserved barn serves as a historical location of pre-Civil War significance and the place where Brown and freedom seekers stayed during their journey.

The final stop of the Bleeding Kansas Bus Tour took us to the Spencer Museum of Art (1301 Mississippi) on the University of Kansas campus. Our tour group had an early opportunity to view newly framed prints by African American Jacob Lawrence. The screenprint series “The Legend of John Brown,” tells the chronological story of John Brown’s life. Was he a martyr or a religious zealot? The 22 screenprints depict Brown’s life choices to lead anti-slavery troops to maintain Kansas as a free state. Oftentimes, Brown’s tactics included violence, which many say contributed to the rise of the Civil War. “The Legend of John Brown” print series collection is on display in a small gallery.

Brown was sentenced to death by hanging only minutes before the Civil War began.

Also on display was a lithograph by artist John Steuart Curry created in 1939. The famous image shows Brown’s arms outstretched with a tornado and wildfires in the distance. Some say these images were depicted as a prelude to the Civil War. Contact the museum for details regarding touring the collection. Admission to the Spencer Museum of Art is free. Plan your visit here.

WATKINS MUSEUM GUIDED TOUR

After the bus tour, I met an employee of Watkins Historical Museum (1047 Massachusetts St.) for a private tour of the iconic building. Built in 1975 by JB Watkins as the Watkins Land Mortgage and National Bank Building, it serves as an artifact of an earlier time in the town’s history.

The building’s founder was a fan of ornate architecture and the finest materials available. The building itself is a masterpiece with its marble staircases, salvaged stained glass windows, hand-carved woodwork, and marble mosaic flooring. The bank originally functioned as a place were farmers came for land loans. Later, it was donated to the city and was used as City Hall until 1970.

For the last 10 years, Watkins Historical Museum began welcoming visitors to tour the building and its permanent exhibits for free. Four smaller rotating exhibits are updated about every six months. The permanent collections’ themes range from the story of Lawrence’s history to University of Kansas basketball to pioneer life artifacts.

The space shown in the photo below is part of Watkins’ original office, which still includes his fireplace, bank vault, and shutter-covered windows. Artifacts from his wife’s contribution to the University of Kansas are included near the space. Elizabeth Watkins donated much of their wealth after JB’s death to build the Watkins Scholarship Hall and the Watkins Nurses Home. A considerable amount of the couple’s earnings were donated to the KU Endowment Association without instructions for its use.

In one corner of the museum, an authentic electric car sits on display. The Milburn Light Electric car was owned by Lawrence resident Eleanor Henley who used it to run errands in town. When you visit the car, look inside! It doesn’t have a steering wheel. How did Eleanor drive it? You’ll have to take a trip to the museum to find out.

Pictured below are two significant items from the University of Kansas’ basketball program’s history. The desk was used by James Naismith in the Robinson Gymnasium on the KU campus. It most likely was also used by Forrest “Phog” Allen. If you open the desk’s drawer, you will see handwritten locker combinations, which may have belonged to the basketball players’ lockers. The 1940s practice backboard was designed by Allen for his students to use to teach them how to arc the basketball. Other artifacts on display include a team jersey worn by Jawhawk Adrian Mitchell-Newell.

A future traveling exhibit “Encountering John Brown” will be on display at the Watkins Museum of History’s Community Room from September 4-November 6. Artist Brad Sneed’s portraits tell the story of Brown, a controversial figure who became America’s most prominent abolitionist. Individuals and groups are welcomed to visit for self-guided tours although the museum prefers to prepare for visiting students. To find out more about visiting the museum and its collections, view their Facebook page.

DINNER

FREE STATE BREWING CO.

There is no better place on Mass Street in downtown Lawrence to enjoy a meal and a craft beer than Free State Brewing Co. (636 Massachusetts St). Kansas’ original craft brewery has been serving flagship beers, rotating seasonal selections, and limited selections for decades. During my visit, I requested the John Brown Ale, but it wasn’t available. Instead, I happily settled for Free State Lager. I was happy to be back at Free State, a place I frequented on Monday $1-pint night during my college years.

Their menu has always included items made from fresh ingredients with flair. You won’t find standard pub grub at Free State. The menu options appeal to foodies who appreciate unique flavor combinations and the freshest ingredients available. We enjoyed the Filipino Egg Rolls with Sesame Chile Soy Dipping Sauce as an appetizer. For dinner, we shared the Nashville Chicken Mac and Free State Fish and Chips. Both entrees exceeded our expectations.

I would highly recommend stopping at Free State Brewing Co. for lunch or dinner during your visit to Lawrence. Although they are not hosting brewery tours at this time, you can check their Facebook events page for upcoming trivia nights or festival celebrations. Locals and visitors alike love the brewery’s vibe. Limited patio seating allows patrons to watch Mass Street happenings with a beer in hand. You may find a street performer nearby playing music.

EXPLORING MASS STREET

BUILDINGS, SHOPPING, PARKS, DRINKS

The following morning, I rose early to walk the quiet streets of downtown Lawrence before the stores opened. I navigated my way to South Park, established in 1854, just beyond 11th and Mass Streets. It is the town’s oldest park and was a location that suffered the wrath of Quantrill’s Raid. In later years, it has served as a picturesque location for outdoor concerts, festivals, antiwar rallies, and women’s rights protests.

How could such a beautiful, green space have once been the site of devastation? It’s hard to imagine, but it’s true. On the way there, I admired the Douglas County Courthouse (1100 Massachusetts St.) for its architectural features. Construction of the building took place in 1904 with a dedication following a year later.

Later, my explorations led me to Black Stag Brewery (623 Mass St.) for a cold one. A massive space, it also includes a covered patio. It’s the kind of place where locals strike up conversations with you.

Stop in for a beer and stay for a meal from the grill or opt for a shareable platter. Unsure what beer you want a pint of? Ask the bartender for samples. I enjoyed tastings for the Mosaic Dream IPA and 1865 Black Stag. Eventually, I committed to the Founding Fathers Tavern Tale, which seemed an appropriate choice given my mission to uncover Lawrence’s history.

When in Lawrence, I also like to revisit a few tried and true hangouts. Eight Street Taproom (801 New Hampshire St.) is an escape from the hustle of downtown and the heat of a Kansas summer day. The dark dive bar is a cool place to enjoy a beer or cocktail to the sounds of indie music and a busy billiards table. The downstairs bar opens after the sun goes down and often features live bands. It’s home to hipsters and townies who have been calling it one of their favorite bars for decades. You’ll appreciate their impressive beer collection.

CEMETERY TOUR

OAK HILL CEMETERY

Just as the evening was coming to a close, I joined a group of history fans at the Oak Hill Cemetery (1605 Oak Hill Avenue) to hear stories of early Lawerence and view the graves of victims from Quantrill’s Raid. It serves as a final burial spot for many including 81 women who were widowed after the raid. Some notable people buried were Kansas politicians. James H. Lane was the first U.S. Senator from Kansas and his grave was the first burial monument added to the cemetery (pictured below).

With flashlights in hand to guide the way after sundown, our group listened to a Watkins Museum of History curator recount the details of those who lost their lives in the raid. If you visit the cemetery, look for The Citizen’s Memorial that stands in remembrance of 50 unidentified men and boys who died during Quantrill’s Raid. To view these graves and others like it, use this map to locate Section 1 and Section 2.

DRINKS

JOHN BROWN’S UNDERGROUND

My final stop for the evening was for craft cocktails at John Brown’s Underground (7 E 7th St). Within moments of entering this basement bar, I realized that it was unlike any “typical” college town establishment. One detail that defines it differently than other bars in the area is that John Brown’s Underground requires reservations for indoor seating.

The space transports you to a surreal environment with low lighting, mood music, and a menu that reads like an excerpt from someone’s diary. A friendly server helped me choose a cocktail recipe from a long list of options. Since it was the eve of the anniversary of Quantrill’s Raid, I chose the John Brown made from whiskey, rum, demerara sugar, and bitters. It was spirit-forward but smooth. My boyfriend opted for the Fever Dream Nova gin cocktail made with basil and mango. It came with Lemongrass Pop Rocks on the side. Both drinks included a square ice cube embossed with a chair on them. Why a chair?

Ironically, the patron on the right was wearing a white shirt with chairs on it. Coincidence?

The chair symbol is a major part of the John Brown Underground story and aesthetic. For the employees, of which many had it tattooed on their arms, it represents the chair John Brown sat on while protecting slaves on the underground railroad. For them, it represents safety, looking out for one another, and a general sense of kindness. The employees are passionate about the tavern’s mission to create a welcoming atmosphere, which is best symbolized by the chair. When enjoying time at the bar, ask your server more about it.

DOWNTOWN HISTORICAL TOUR

QUANTRILL’S RAID WALKING TOUR

Intrigued about all that I had learned about Bleeding Kansas, I attended Quantrill’s Raid Walking Tour hosted by local historian John Jewell the following morning. He led about a dozen of us around downtown Lawrence starting at the Watkins History Museum and to the main of the locations where fighting and bloodshed took place during the raid. A historical marker identifies the House Building. It was the only structure left standing on that black after the raid.

During the tour, Jewell pointed to buildings that were rebuilt after that fateful date in history. A post-raid campaign was the focus of community members who wanted to rebuild a shattered community. Lawrence’s downtown district is a testament to their will to survive.

BREAKFAST

LADYBIRD DINER

Hungry for breakfast before leaving Lawrence, we stopped into Ladybird Diner (721 Massachusetts St.). Sometimes the places we stop to eat when on the road we’re not originally a part of the travel plan and they turn out to be delightful. When in Lawrence, choose to have breakfast followed by homemade pie at Ladybird Diner. We enjoyed Avocado Toast with Scrambled Eggs and Huevos Rancheros with Corn Tortillas. With room left for dessert, I selected a slice of peach pie made with latticework crust. Beyond delicious. He said, “It’s one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever had.”

We will definitely return to the diner during a return visit to Lawrence. Until then, I may have to learn how to copy the Huevos Rancheros recipe at home.

Make sure to look inside the rotating pie cabinet before choosing your selection. Warning: Your mouth will water.

BONUS HISTORICAL STOP

KANSAS STATE CAPITOL (TOPEKA)

A visit to the Kansas State Capitol (SW 8th & SW Van Buren St., Topeka) wouldn’t be complete without viewing John Steuart Curry’s “Tragic Prelude” painting on display on the second floor’s east wing featuring John Brown. This painting as well as others he did for the capitol brought criticism, so the Kansas legislature caved to public pressure and demanded that the “marble panels not be removed and thus put an end to Curry’s rotunda murals” (Source: kshs.org). Curry did not finish the paintings and left the statehouse murals unsigned. What do you think the images in the painting represent given the turmoil of the time?

The original sword belonging to Brown is also on display in a rotunda room not far from the Kansas Constitution. It is part of a larger collection of artifacts that tell the story of when Kansas Territory was established on the brink of the Civil War. We got lucky and happen to visit the capitol minutes before a guided tour was about to begin. To view public viewing hours and tour information, visit this page. It is an impressive building worth viewing at least once in your lifetime, especially if you’re a Kansas native.

To truly understand a town’s existence, you have to dive deep into its history books. Peruse its museums. Walk its streets. I invite you to travel to Lawrence and visit these historical places as well as the ones that welcome visitors today. It’s a town near and dear to my heart, and now I appreciate it that much more.

If you’re interested in learning more about the best places to check out when in Lawrence, leave your questions below or head over to Unmistakeably Lawrence to plan your visit.

Small Town, Big Fun: Stops You Should Make in Hays, Kansas

August 15, 2021 by Vanessa Whiteside 1 Comment

Disclosure: Kansas I-70 Association sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

A one-time wild frontier town known for its colorful history and Volga German heritage, Hays, Kansas offers today’s visitors a glimpse into the past and modern experiences for travelers passing along KS I-70. You’re guaranteed to enjoy your stay in Hays. I discovered that there is more than enough to do. I squeezed a lot in my itinerary during an overnight stay. In fact, you may just want to spend an entire weekend touring the small town’s attractions, dining options, and historic landmarks.

Hays Mural — Mural at the Fox (1202 Main St.) is a 35’x60′ mural by local artist Dennis Schiel.

HISTORY

Founded in 1867, the railroad town was put on the map by the Union Pacific Railway Eastern Division and was named after Historic Fort Hays. The military post provided refuge for settlers and railroad workers to escape Indian resistance. The town attracted workers but as well as colorful characters who enjoyed saloons, brothels, dance halls, and gambling houses.

A couple of years later, James Butler Hickok, a skilled marksman became sheriff of Hays. He killed men in shootouts in an attempt to end the lawlessness in town. But Hickock was sheriff for only three short months. The citizens didn’t appreciate his style of law and another sheriff was chosen. In 1876, he was shot in the back of the head and killed while sitting in a South Dakota saloon playing cards by a young gunslinger, Jack McCall.

I loved walking around downtown Hays and imagining it as a lawless town. Many of the original buildings have been restored. The photo below is the historic George Philip Hardware building established in 1894 located at 719 Main Street. Over the years, the structure has been a general store, public land office, and the Hays Free Press. The limestone building now houses a dress boutique shop.

The Wiesner’s Department Store building is now the Be Made Mercantile in The Bricks of Downtown Hays area. A mix of specialty shops, offices, and restaurants now occupy many of the historic buildings brought back to their beautiful beginnings with thoughtful restoration. The downtown corridor is a treasure. It was named “Most Beautiful Main Street in Kansas” by MSN.

LODGING

HILTON GARDEN INN AND CONVENTION CENTER

The Hilton Garden Inn and Convention Center‘s (221 W. 43rd St.) modern style and unexpected luxury surprised me considering its reasonable rate. It’s consistently ranked high on hotel rating websites. While I’m sure there are a number of respectable hotels to stay at when in Hays, I highly recommend booking your overnight accommodations here.

The 100-room hotel features a restaurant and bar, indoor pool, fitness room, and free parking. I was shocked at the size of my room. It was larger than some of my college apartments. I had ample space to spread out my work gear and plug in all of my gadgets. The TV provided streaming channel options. I suggest that you bring your Netflix and YouTube credentials with you to make logging into your platforms a breeze. You’ll also appreciate the in-room coffeemaker and tea station.

Hilton Garden Inn is one of those hotels that you look back at the sign as you’re leaving and think “I want to stay here again.” It’s modern, spacious, clean, and has a long list of awesome amenities. A pet-friendly hotel, I feel good knowing that the next time I visit, I can bring my four-legged family member with me during my return trip to Hays.

HAYS ATTRACTIONS

STERNBERG MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY

When in Hays, you must visit Fort Hays State University’s Sternberg Museum of Natural History (3000 Sternberg Drive). I can tell you first-hand that it’s no ordinary attraction. The collections are impressive in size and quality. They focus on evolutionary science with an emphasis on the Great Plains. Fossils, rocks and minerals, dinosaur bones, and more make touring the exhibits a treat for visitors of all ages. As a native Kansan, I loved that a considerable amount of the collections’ artifacts were found in the Sunflower State.

The geology specimens will rock your world. You’ll love walking through and looking into glass-encased exhibits at colorful rocks, minerals, and crystals. The exhibits help you better understand three distinct geologic eras. I was wowed by their beauty and historical significance. Perhaps you’ve seen geodes and rocks before, but never the size and color of the ones on exhibit at Sternberg.

The museum’s paleontology area allows visitors to get an up-close view of animatronic dinosaurs, prehistoric animals, sea swimming creatures, and fish that lived in Kansas over 80 million years ago. It was a different world when the seas flooded North America. The museum’s exhibits give visitors a glimpse into the past.

As an adult, I appreciated the “A Look Inside” collection of x-rays of animals. Scientists use the images to look at the skeletons of animal specimens that lived millions of years ago. Before leaving this area of the museum, make sure you observe the freshwater creatures swimming in aquariums. The live tortoise exhibit is also worthy of a look. Did you know a tortoise’s leg is similar to an elephant’s? Fun facts like these are on display throughout the center.

Kids will love the Discovery Room for its hands-on activities. The space also has rows of enclosed aquariums featuring live snakes, frogs, and spiders. In another area of the museum, the Fossil Dig Site gives children the chance to unearth dinosaur “bones.”

A major draw of the museum is its collection of fossils found in the Great Plains, which largely exists because of the work of Charles H. Sternberg. He collected fossils in Kansas starting in 1867. Today, his family’s fossil collection includes more than 400,000 vertebrate and invertebrate specimens. You can also tour rooms stocked with plant fossils. Sternberg amassed a large collection of world-famous fossils like the Tylosaurus marine lizard pictured below.

An extraordinary place, the museum has won the Best of the Best Official People’s Choice Award as a local tourism attraction. It truly is worthy of a visit.

ELLIS COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM

Another major attraction for visitors to Hays is the Ellis County Historical Museum (111 East 30th St.). Actually, it’s more of a campus rather than a single museum. You can request a tour of the Volga German Haus and Fire Museum on location. The limestone and brick churches are no longer open to the public, however, you can still view their detailed architecture.

What do you consider when admiring the architecture of another time? I think it tells a story. Many of the buildings in Hays were constructed with limestone, a material that is prevalent in the area. The residents worked hard to erect the buildings that stand today.

HISTORIC CHURCHES OF ELLIS COUNTY

To understand Hays as a community, it’s necessary to get to know its German heritage. The settlers who chose Ellis County as their home brought with them Roman Catholic influences. The ten churches in Hays and the surrounding area are exceptionally tall with Gothic-style architectural details. If you’re interested in taking a self-guided Historic Churches Tour, you can download the brochure here or contact the Hays Welcome Center for details.

I made a stop outside of Hays in Victoria, Kansas to gaze upon “The Cathedral of the Plains” aka The Basilica of St. Fidelis (900 Cathedral Ave.) It is so massive that you can see it in the distance when driving on KS I-70. The Roman Catholic church is built in the shape of a cross and its entrance faces west. Adorned with two towers that reach 141′ tall, it seats over a thousand people making it the largest church west of the Mississippi. It’s also considered one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas. I was awe-inspired by its majestic beauty.

KSU AGRICULTURAL RESEARCH CENTER

I never thought I’d learn so much about Kansas farming and ranching until touring the KSU Agricultural Research Center (1232 240th Ave.). It gave me a humbled appreciation and better understanding of the work that goes into producing a successful harvest or cattle herd.

Greeted by a welcoming employee, he volunteered to take me on a private tour of the grounds. He told me about the work Kansas State University is doing there. It’s more than a farm – it’s a science lab. I learned that their lab research makes it possible to improve and innovate traditional farming methods.

Because of their lab testing and research, rural farmers know how to improve their methods resulting in a better harvest or herd. From cattle nutrition to land management and plant pathology to entomology, the folks at the center work year-round to learn from nature. In fact, it was at the KSU Agricultural Research Center that many of the biggest contributions to the science of farming have taken place. The use of ultrasound information at the center helped scientists learn more about beef marbling, which led to the USDA’s grading system for quality.

You don’t have to be a farmer to appreciate the work the KSU team is doing. Even as a novice gardener, I walked away having learned more about working the land and how it benefits us all. You’ll find the tour fascinating. You don’t have to schedule a tour and can stop by anytime during their office hours.

PETE FELTEN SCULPTURES TOUR

A sucker for public art, I’m always game to go on a treasure hunt for pieces I’ve never seen. Find a Felten is a self-guided tour of 16 limestone sculptures created by Hays artist, Pete Felten. Each one helps to tell the story of the Kansas town.

I appreciated the wonder of each piece – and to think that Felten is a self-taught sculptor! His first commissioned piece of Buffalo Bill Cody is on display front and center at the Hays Public Library. From small in size to 24-ton creations, Felten has shaped stone to represent the best of Hays’ history like the Hereford Bull pictured above. To see 16 Felten sculptures, you’ll need to drive to the locations not located in the downtown district. Use this brochure to plan your adventure!

BOOT HILL CEMETERY

The 1885 site, Boot Hill Cemetary, is where outlaws “died with their boots on.” It sits at Fort and 18th Street in what is now a suburban neighborhood of Hays. The site is located on a hill that serves as the final resting place where many were buried during the days of Wild Bill Hickock. “The Homesteader,” another Felten sculpture marks the location.

I found it easy to park nearby the cemetery and take a short walk to the monument. It’s yet another way to understand the lawlessness and corruption that once ruled Hays. It’s reported that 79 outlaws were buried there. Will you visit the burial ground?

HISTORIC WALKING TOUR

Continuing my journey through Hay’s past, I opted to take a self-guided walking tour of the infamous buildings that made up old Hays City. The area of town, referred to as Chestnut Street District includes 25 buildings with bronze plaques that explain each one’s significance.

For me, there is something about standing outside the door of what once was Tommy Drum’s Saloon and Paddy Walsh’s Gambling Hall that sends my imagination into overdrive. How many gunslingers were killed there? What did the music sound like from the saloons? And now I’m standing where they stood.

THE BRICKS DOWNTOWN HAYS

Strolling along picturesque downtown Hays is a pleasure. The Bricks in Downtown Hays is a walkable district with breweries, bakeries, boutiques, and entertainment venues. Honestly, there really is something for all ages to enjoy. I’d recommend checking for upcoming events on the Facebook page before planning an outing.

DINING

BREATHE COFFEE HOUSE

I found Breathe Coffee House (703 B Main St.) to be the perfect way to start my morning in downtown Hays. They serve “oddly correct coffee,” crepes, smoothies, and scones. The cafe’s mission is to serve as a place for people to connect, to feel cared for by others, and to welcome people of all faiths and backgrounds.

As I sipped on my latté made from Kansas City roaster, Oddly Correct, I noticed that an entire wall was covered in shelves housing mugs. To join the Coffee Club, the cafe devotees pay $25 that serves as a donation to fund outreach projects. The cafe is a non-profit that supports Dialogue Ministries.

Warm and welcoming, the cafe is a cozy place to enjoy a cup of coffee.

PAISLEY PEAR WINE BAR, BISTRO and MARKET

Another delightful space to relax and unwind after a day of exploring downtown Hays is Paisley Pear Wine Bar, Bistro and Market (1100 Main St). Established in 2017, the wine bar has been serving beverage flights and wine slushies since 2017. During my visit, I chose a $12 wine flight of dry varieties from a long list of options. My favorite selection was a cabernet sauvignon from Skyfall Vineyards. Thankfully, my server was kind enough to provide me samples of cheese from Alma Creamery, which paired well with all of my choices.

I took my time sipping and enjoying the selections as I watched women arrive to attend a baby shower in a separate event space in the back of the building. Smaller groups gathered at tables in the tasting room to drink wine and catch up on the latest happenings.

Paisley Pear occupies a 100-year-old building that was JB Basgall Grocery. Check out the photo below. You can see the original floors! If you stop in for one of their popular wine slushies, a wine flight, or a cocktail (they have a full bar!), take a few moments to get up and walk around the space. You’ll love their retail inventory of Kansas-made products.

GELLA’S DINER + Lb BREWING CO.

I had heard about Gella’s Diner + Lb Brewing Co. (117 E. 11 St.) before arriving in Hays. They are well-known in town for their excellent pub grub and craft beer. My dining experience lived up to the hype. Gella’s was worth the stop.

I chose a seat at the bar so I could have a clear view of the brewers at work behind the glass wall. My bartender was friendly and happy to provide a few beer samples until I eventually decided on a pint of the unfiltered Grapefruit Radler. Undecided between two lunch options, she persuaded me to order a local’s favorite, a Smothered Bierock covered in creamy cheese sauce with a side of homemade chips. She also made sure my meal came with creamy bacon horseradish and sweet onion dip to eat with the chips. Lunch never tasted so good! And the beer? It was crisp and aromatic. I’d definitely order it again. Maybe a growler of it.

Knowing full well that I didn’t have room left for dessert, I ordered the French Toast Brulèe anyway. The crisp exterior gave way to a pillowy center as my spoon cracked into it. Combined with vanilla bean ice cream and fresh whipped cream, it was beyond delicious.

I’d recommend stopping at Gella’s for lunch or dinner any time you’re in Hays. The restaurant is large enough that it can easily accommodate groups. Menu prices were reasonable for the quality and portion sizes. If you drink craft beer, you can expect 12 taps with two rotating on a regular basis.

TRIO TAP HOUSE

The dinner bell was ringing and I was hungry. Trio Tap House (1106 E. 26th) claims they are a place to enjoy “an honest meal and a proper good time” and they weren’t kidding. I nestled into my seat and reviewed the menu. I was craving a hearty salad. The Dry Aged Steak & Blue checked all the boxes. It had fresh romaine lettuce, creamy blue cheese crumbles, red onion, and a steak cooked to medium rare.

To wash it down, I chose Breckenridge Brewing Company’s Peach Palisade Wheat. One bonus to stopping into a brewery in western Kansas? You’re bound to find several Colorado beers on tap.

DEFIANCE BREWING COMPANY (DOWNTOWN)

A new downtown brewpub, Defiance Brewing Co. recently opened its second location (111 W. 7th St.). I’ve been a fan of their beer for a couple of years, so I stocked up my cooler before heading for home. My lunch, a large house salad with champagne vinaigrette, hit the spot as I was in need of something fresh and light. Radio hits from my college years blasted in the background and I whispered the lyrics between bites.

If you’re a craft beer fan, I suggest visiting their downtown location. They offer 12 beer selections and a quarter of the menu are IPAs. Rumor has it they are aging beer in barrels in the side room. Craving lunch or dinner? Ask for a menu that features wood-fired pizzas, sandwiches, and salads.

My time in Hays may have been short-lived, but it wasn’t without delightful moments. You will feel the same as you dive deep into the town’s history, enjoy a meal in good company, and appreciate all that the downtown district has to offer. In fact, you may just need to extend your hotel stay another night to make sure you have a bonus day to enjoy Hays. It’s a thriving small town that offers big fun.