• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

A Lifestyle Blog

  • About
    • Work With Me
      • Delightful Life Media
    • Privacy Policy & Disclosures
  • Travel
    • United States
      • Kansas
      • Missouri
      • Nevada
      • Nebraska
      • New York
      • Oklahoma
      • Texas
      • Wisconsin
    • Mexico
  • Taste
    • Breakfast
    • Lunch
      • Salads
      • Sandwiches
    • Dinner
      • Grilled
      • Sides
      • Pasta
      • Rice
    • Appetizers
    • Desserts
    • Drinks
      • Cocktails
      • Non-Alcoholic
    • Snacks
  • DIY
    • Projects
  • Lifestyle
  • 100 Things to Do in Wichita Before You Die
  • Contact

Civil War

Unforgettable Experiences in Fort Scott, Kansas

April 19, 2023 by Vanessa Whiteside Leave a Comment

Disclosure: Kansas Tourism sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

Fort Scott, Kansas, is a special place promising unforgettable experiences. Established in 1855, it’s maintained its historic charm while adding remarkable museums, dining, and unique shopping to a list of visit-worthy attractions.

A 1.5-hour drive south of Kansas City or 2.5 hours east of Wichita, the southeast Kansas town makes for a delightful experience.

Fort Scott, Kansas mural
Fort Scott is named after General Winfield Scott, a commander during the War of 1812 and the Mexican-American War.

Accommodations

The Courtland Hotel & Spa

Nestled in Fort Scott’s historic downtown district sits The Courtland Hotel & Spa (121 E. 1st St.), a period-style building dating back to 1906. The hotel’s historic ambiance is clear from the moment you walk inside the oversized glass door to the creaky wood floors.

The Courtland Hotel & Spa
Historic charm combined with modern amenities provided a comfortable stay. The King 1 room was secluded down a hallway away from the rest of the rooms.

A building that temporarily housed railroad workers during the early 1900s, the hotel features fully furnished rooms and spacious bathrooms on its second floor. Not only did my room (King Room 1) include double closets and soft bedding, but I was able to work using its high-speed Wi-Fi and stream movies. A grab-and-go breakfast near the coffee station made the stay extra comfortable.

PRO TIP:  To book a tranquil spa service, call 620-223-5676 or reserve a service online before your arrival. And if you’re interested in bike rental, ask about the yellow bikes in front of the hotel.

The Courtland Hotel and Spa in Fort Scott, Kansas
Free on-street parking is available on two sides of the building. Look for the quaint alleyway patio with string lights to enjoy a secluded moment to yourself.

Outdoor Adventures

Gunn Park

When visiting Fort Scott, you must explore beautiful Gunn Park (1010 Park Ave.). The 155-acre landscape seems to go as far as the eye can see. Families appreciate its playground areas while anglers fish from the banks for scene Fern Lake.

Do you prefer to adventure via mountain bike? Gunn Park Trails wind through wooded scenery along the Marmaton River. It’s the site of the Marmaton Massacre Mountain Bike Race & Festival in September.

Fern Lake at Gunn Park Fort Scott, Kansas
Can you see the limestone shelter across Fern Lake?

For a novice disc golfer, I thought the 18-hole course was approachable. Despite the trees, each hole was pretty spacious, and golfers play from concrete tee boxes.

PRO TIP: The park includes 14 camp sites with electric and water hookups if you travel by RV. The cost is $20/night.

Disc golf basket Fort Scott, Kansas
Originally a 9-hole course, Gunn Park’s disc course was expanded to 18 holes.

Take a Tour

Fort Scott National Historic Site

Most travelers visit the area to tour Fort Scott National Historic Site (199 Old Fort Blvd.), established in 1842. Fort Scott played an important role in Bleeding Kansas, The Civil War, and westward railroad expansion.

It served as a military outpost on the Indian frontier to keep settlers in Missouri out of the territory and vice-versa. And to contain westward expansion, infantry patrolled the Oregon and Santa Fe trails to ensure safe travel.

cannon at Fort Scott
Fort Scott Civil War Encampment is an event hosted in April annually featuring reenactors, artillery demonstrations, and authentic 1840s fort experiences. The fort hosts patriotic events on July 4th, Labor Day, and Veteran’s Day weekend.

The fort lies near the Kansas/Missouri border, an area for Civil War combat. It served as a supply depot, hospital, and top-ranking generals and their families live on-site in special barracks.

Fort Scott military housing
What do you notice about the furnishings in this military family’s living room?

Today, the historic buildings are open for self-guided tours every day from sunrise to sunset, or you can join a guided tour from the Visitor Center at 10 am and 1 pm daily. I chose the self-guided option and listened to my phone’s free National Park Service app . I was pleased with the narrator’s thorough description of each building and its use.

Selfie at Fort Scott National Historic Site
Part of the United States National Park Service, Fort Scott National Historic Site welcomes over 26,000 visitors each year.

PRO TIP: Start at the Visitor’s Center to view a map of the grounds and ask any questions of the park ranger. Its retail area contains books and gifts for all ages.

Fort Scott hospital
Imagine a dozen soldiers suffering from Civil War injuries in this hospital room. The practice of medicine was primitive, and most soldiers suffered from pneumonia, infections, dysentery, fever, and more.

U.S. Cemetery No. 1

My historic tour of the area took me to Fort Scott National Cemetery (900 E. National Ave.). The resting place for all armed forces members, it pays tribute to the soldiers who severed honorable for the country. Established in 1862 by President Abraham Lincoln and the US Congress, it is one of 14 cemeteries in the nation and three in the state.

Fort Scott National Cemetery
In 1999, Fort Scott National Cemetery was listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Open from dawn to dusk, visitors can enter the cemetery on two sides via grand entrances and park along the paved roads before exiting to walk the grounds consisting of 10.5 acres.

Foreman Lopez greeted me at the office and patiently explained the cemetery’s significance and notable gravestones. A poet, Eugene Fitch Ware, who wrote “Jonquil” and “John Brown,” is interred in Grave 1. Sixteen Indian soldiers who were Army scouts and 88 African American soldiers from the Kansas Colored Volunteer Infantry are buried in Section 5.

PRO TIP: In search of a particular grave site? Use the video touchscreen at the Visitor’s Center to search the database and print a map.

Fort Scott National Cemetery
These tombstones honor some of the oldest gravesites at the cemetery. The earliest recorded death was Captain Alexander Morrow on July 1, 1851.

Gordon Parks Museum

Gordon Parks, originally from Fort Scott, was a world-renowned photojournalist and filmmaker whose work impacted many people’s lives. His images captured the Civil Rights movement, celebrities in candid moments, and the struggle of impoverished people.

Voted Kansan of the Year in 1986, he also published an autobiographical novel, The Learning Tree, about Fort Scott. He directed multiple films, wrote musical compositions, and authored several books.

The Lowell Milken Center for Unsung Heroes' outdoor exhibit
Gordon Parks is also recognized at The Lowell Milken Center for Unsung Heroes’ outdoor exhibit space and walking trail.

Located on the Fort Scott Community College campus, The Gordon Parks Museum (2108 S. Horton St.) displays some of his photography collection, piano, movie memorabilia, and personal effects. The museum’s annual Choice of Weapons ceremony, held at the museum, honors a person in uses their art to make a profound difference in the lives of others.

The Gordon Parks Museum in Fort Scott, KansasA major fan of his work and one-time photography teacher, I was disappointed to learn that the museum was closed on Good Friday during my visit to town. So, I made a point of finding his gravesite at the Evergreen Cemetery. The black granite tombstone has text on both sides, including a poem, Homecoming, which details how he felt while living in Fort Scott and his hope for the future.

PRO TIP: Plan your visit by checking the museum’s hours, which operate when the college is open.

Gordon Parks Tombstone in Fort Scott, Kansas

The Lowell Milken Center for Unsung Heroes

Do you have what it takes to step up and help others in need? At Lowell Milken Center for Unsung Heroes (1 S. Main), museumgoers learn about individuals whose bravery propelled them to do the right thing despite the odds. The stories of true heroes amongst us moved me.

The Lowell Milken Center for Unsung Heroes in Fort Scott
Museum displays were created thanks to student research, including the Little Rock Nine story.

Each display features a student-driven project that focuses on someone of extraordinary character. They are the stories of everyday people who made incredible sacrifices, like Polish-born Irena Sendler, who spearheaded a group of people to offer food and shelter to Jewish people. She helped rescue 2,500 Jewish children during the Nazi occupation during World War II.

PRO TIP: Give yourself an hour to tour the museum. Many displays include a video component.

The Lowell Milken Center for Unsung Heroes
Use the video station at each display to take a deeper dive into the history of each hero’s journey.

Dolly The Trolley

If you’re short on time and want to make the most of your visit to Fort Scott, a 50-minute narrated tour on Dolly The Trolley is the answer. Parked at the Fort Scott Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Center (231 E. Wall St.), the trolley runs from the first weekend of March to the first weekend of December. View ticket prices and trolley hours here.

PRO TIP: Stop in the Fort Scott Visitor’s Center to stock up on travel brochures and sign the guest book.

trolley
The trolley can be rented for private parties for $125 per hour.

Downtown Shopping

Historic brick streets. Boutique shops in every building. Interesting antiques are around every corner. Shoppers on the lookout for a gem of a find will love strolling through the stores in downtown Fort Scott.

Historic Downtown Fort Scott
Visitors could easily devote at least an hour perusing the historic downtown boutique and antique shops.

Each shop has a visual personality, and most stores carry an eclectic mix of goods, from repurposed furniture and ladies’ apparel to on-trend home decor and vintage items.

Downtown Fort Hays, Kansas
During the 1950s, the town was considered the “city of brick streets” because it had more brick streets per capita than any other city in the country.

During your visit, stop inside The Iron Star (3 N. Main St.), Main Street Vintage & Co. (23 S. Main St.), Sunshine Boutique (18 E. Wall St.), Angie Dawn’s Boutique (108 Scott Ave.), and Treasure Hunt Flea Market (6 S. Main St.) to purchase something special for you or a loved one. This list scratches the surface. I look forward to returning to Fort Hays when I have more time to shop.

Main Street Gallery & Gifts
While many shops in downtown Fort Scott specialize in curated antiques, some boutiques carry clothes, jewelry, soaps, and candles.

During my shopping experience, I appreciated Hedgehog Ink‘s(16 S. Main St.) new, gently used book inventory. As you walk in, ask the employee about the monthly sales special. The books are well-organized and categorized by type and genre.

Book store
Hedgehog Ink sells gently used and select new books, and lounge areas in the back of the store provide a place to sit and relax while reading.

PRO TIP: You should park the car in the heart of the downtown shopping district and walk to the stores. Take a moment to look for Downtown Walking Tour signs that provide historical context to the area.

walking tour sign
Scan the QR code with your mobile phone’s camera to access more information at each walking tour sign.

Sip & Savor

Common Ground Coffee Co.

Bustling with activity, Common Ground Coffee Co. (12 E. Wall St.) is the place to gather at a large table with friends or sit solo to catch up on work. During my visit, community college students intently studied behind laptops while sipping from coffee cups.

Common Grounds Coffee Co.
In a hurry? Use Common Grouns Coffee Co.’s drive-thru option located in an alleyway between buildings.

You’re guaranteed to be greeted by a friendly face behind the counter. Not always sure what I want to order, the employee was patient while I asked questions about the breakfast menu options ranging from muffins to fresh-made sandwiches.

PRO TIP: A downtown hangout for locals, the coffee shop hosts live music played by singers and songwriters occasionally. Check the café’s event schedule.

Common Grounds Coffee Co. in Fort Scott
Dirty Chai Latté and Croissant Breakfast Sandwich with Bacon

Sharky’s Pub & Grub

What do you get when you mix an Irish bar with an island theme inside a building dating back to 1888? Sharky’s Pub & Grub (16 N. National Ave.) is a favorite restaurant with locals. Every wall space has sports bar memorabilia, funny bumper stickers, and tin signs. Guinness flags drop overhead, and an Irish flag outside the building keeps with the theme.

With 20 beers on tap and an extensive menu, you’re bound to order something that curbs your cravings. They serve “good food and honest drink,” making it a go-to place to grab lunch or dinner. The Asian Chicken Salad was a heaping portion considering it was the “lunch size,” and it paired well with a Lagunitas IPA cold draft.

PRO TIP: Seat yourself wherever you would prefer to sit. If dining alone, pony up to the bar for quick service.

Asian Chicken Salad at Sharky's Pub & Grub in Fort Scott, Kansas
Patrons can substitute grilled chicken for fried chicken in the Asian Chicken Salad at Sharky’s Pub & Grub.

Crooner’s Lounge

Ooh la la! There is no better place to enjoy a high-end dinner in Fort Scott than Crooner’s Lounge (117 S. Main). Surprisingly, the restaurant offered incredibly affordable Happy Hour specials, a short list of martinis, cocktails, wine selections, and small plate bites. My crab cakes arrived with an outer crust and soft center.

Dirty Martini at Crooner's Lounge in Fort Scott, Kansas
A Dirty Martini made with premium Grey Goose Vodka was a Happy Hour option. The entire bill, including food, was less than $50 with a tip.

The lasagna (recommended to me by a couple of locals) was scrumptious for dinner. A large portion that two people could easily share came with a house salad and bread. Although I was stuffed, I craved something sweet. My server asked the kitchen to prepare cinnamon ice cream with a caramel drizzle minus the cake for my after-dinner treat. I ate every bite.

PRO TIP: Make a reservation in advance of your arrival at Fort Scott. I also recommend you view the restaurant’s Facebook page to ensure it’s not closed for a private party. When you go, ask about the specials before ordering your meal.

House Salad at Crooner's Lounge in Fort Scott, Kansas
The House Salad is served with parmesan and dark basil balsamic or ranch dressing.
Homemade lasagna at Crooner's Lounge in Fort Scott, Kansas
Made with ground beef and sausage, the homemade lasagna was a heaping portion that required a to-go box.

Other Places or Events Worth Checking Out

Would you like to take to the links? Play 18 holes at the highly-rated Woodland Hills Golf Course (2414 Horton St.). If you have time to explore agritourism locations, check out The Lavender Patch Farm, 1553 Plants & Produce, or Fort Scott’s Farmers’ Market. Don’t miss Museum of Creativity, see a show at Liberty Theatre or Danny and Willis Ellis Family Fine Arts Center.

To learn more about Fort Scott, view Kansas Tourism’s directory page. And when visiting Fort Scott, be sure to also plan for an overnight stay in Humboldt, a 48-mile drive west of town.

Fort Scott, Kansas
Downtown Fort Scott is a hub of restaurants and shops and sits directly across the street from Fort Scott National Historic Site, making it a walkable district.

What did I leave off the list? What unforgettable place would you recommend I visit in Fort Scott during a return visit? Leave your comments below!

If you’re traveling through Southeast Kansas, consider viewing my travel recommendations for Humboldt, Coffeyville, and Pittsburg.

Filed Under: Kansas, Travel Tagged With: antiques, Bleeding Kansas, bricks, cemetery, Civil War, disc golf, fort, Fort Scott, golf course, Gordon Parks, heroes, historic site, history, military, Missouri border, murals, museum, National Historic Site, Native American, park, patriotic, photography, railroad, Southeast Kansas, sports bar, trolley, walking tour

Lecompton, Kansas: A Charming Town With Historic Landmarks

November 23, 2021 by Vanessa Whiteside Leave a Comment

Disclosure: Kansas I-70 Association sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

One aspect of travel that motivates me to take to the road is to learn about an area’s history. Take Exit 197 from Kansas I-70 to Lecompton, Kansas and you have arrived at the Birthplace of the Civil War and the Territorial Capital of Kansas from 1855-1861.

Located between Topeka and Lawrence, the quaint town is home to a friendly community that welcomes tourists interested in learning about its impact on American history. In addition to historical buildings and tours, travelers will appreciate the downtown area for its charming small businesses.

During my visit, I was met by the town’s top historian, Paul, who took me on a guided tour of Lecompton’s landmarks and businesses. It’s not every day that your tour guide is dressed as a reenactor or as the infamous Samuel Jones, a Douglas County sheriff who helped Lecompton play a role in the Bleeding Kansas conflict. This was going to be fun.

BREAKFAST

Paul joined me at Aunt Netters Cafe (336 Elmore) as I dined on Country Fried Steak and Eggs. The restaurant is the sole gathering spot for locals and people passing through town during the breakfast and lunch hours. Known for serving homestyle food and gourmet baked goods, the place was buzzing with conversation.

The meal was scrumptious and the menu prices were reasonable for the portion sizes. If you’re passing through northeast Kansas in route to Lawrence or Bonner Springs, stop by for a plate of pancakes, biscuits and sausage gravy, or breakfast sandwich. The lunch menu is just as appetizing. (View the cafe’s hours here.)

As Paul introduced me to the history of Lecompton, he pointed out the wall decorated with the town’s history “The Lecompton Swindle”. I quickly surmised that Lecompton was a town prideful about making its mark in history dating back to its founding in 1854.

With breakfast complete, we set out on our trek through town.

EARLY DAYS

The town was originally named Bald Eagle (yes, that’s right!) but was later renamed Lecompton by a judge. It sits on the south bank of the Kansas river making it a prime place to view eagles nesting along its banks.

CONSTITUTION HALL

Dressed as the pro-slavery sheriff Samuel J. Jones, Paul led us to Constitution Hall (319 Elmore St.) directly across the street from the cafe. A visit to the town is not complete without immersing yourself in its history and this should be the first site on your self-guided tour.

Constitution Hall is listed as a National Landmark, Kansas Historic Site and was a finalist as one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas. Built in 1856, it was the site where the Lecompton Constitution was written by pro-slavery advocates.

The famous document was rejected in the 1858 election. To learn more about how Kansas was eventually admitted to the Union as a free state on January 29, 1861, visit this website page. A copy of the actual document is on display in the hall.

The Lecompton Constitution caused a major rift between members of the Democratic Party. Word spread to the White House. You can read more about the document and the Lincoln-Douglas debates inside Constitution Hall.

Because of the conflict that took place at the site, it is said that Lecompton was the original Birthplace of the Civil War. To take a deep dive into the state’s history during this time, visit the Kansas Historical Society’s site here.

As we walked on the creaky wood floors, I learned that the hall is the oldest wood-frame building in the state still standing in its original location. The sunlight beamed through the windows. We were standing where Kansas history took place. The Kansas Supreme Court once met upstairs. Some of the artifacts on display include the box used for fake ballots, an office safe, and a land office desk owned by Daniel Boone’s grandson.

If you’d like to visit Constitution Hall, it is open to individuals and small groups Wednesday-Sunday. Adult admission is $3. I found the employee on-site to be extremely knowledgeable and willing to answer questions. I’d recommend at least 30 minutes for a tour.

If you want to visit with a large group, a courtesy call to museum staff at least two weeks in advance is appreciated. View the hall’s hours here.

LECOMPTON CITY JAIL

Sitting in the shadow of Constitution Hall is the old Lecompton City Jail (315 Elmore St.) The tiny, one-room structure was originally built by Sheriff Jones.

Of course, it was fitting that Paul had a key to the jail. He ushered me inside. After a few seconds of standing in the musty dark room, I was ready to exit. There was very little sunlit peeking through the iron window bars.

The story goes that Jones, a pro-slavery sheriff, was shot in the back by free state forces. He helped in the effort to burn down Lawrence, Kansas in 1856. His original tombstone was moved from Las Cruces, New Mexico, and sits on display in front of the jail.

TERRITORIAL CAPITAL MUSEUM

Another important stop on the tour was Territorial Capital Museum (640 E. Woodson), a towering limestone multi-story structure. Did you know that Lecompton was the state’s capital until Topeka earned the title in 1861? The 1855 legislature voted for it. The town was a bustling center for political discourse.

The museum sits on the former 13-acre Lecompton capital square district and was constructed in 1855. The budget was $50,000, but eventually, the money ran out. When antislavery legislators gained control of the territorial legislature, the location of Kansas’ capital was moved to Topeka. This action was detrimental to the town. Later, the building became known as Lane University where reportedly seventy-five co-ed students studied there.

Now, the building serves as a museum that is open to visitors who want to come inside view rooms of historical artifacts. Paul wanted me to experience history first-hand by attaching a ball and chain to my boots. The 20lb. weight, dating back to the early 1900s made by Leavenworth prisoners, was nearly impossible to walk with when attached. Other museum artifacts included Civil War weapons, documents, and an extensive collection of the town’s memorabilia.

Did you read the blog post I wrote about Quantrill’s Raid in Lawrence, Kansas? Prior to the Civil War, feuds between pro-slavery Missourians and antislavery Kansans raged erupting in Lawrence in 1863. Confederate leader William Quantrill led a band of 400 men on horseback to attack the men and teenage boys. They burned homes and businesses to the ground.

During my tour, every inch of the space was decorated with 200+ Christmas trees, an annual tradition that attracts tourists to town from November 1-January 1. Each tree was adorned with Victorian, antique, and themed ornaments. It’s well worth stopping at the museum if only to see the holiday trees, a sight to behold.

I’d recommend devoting about an hour of your time in town to tour the museum. Admission is free, but a $3 donation is kindly accepted. If you have questions about the artifacts in the cases, a volunteer is on hand to answer them for you. View the museum’s hours here.

DEMOCRATIC HEADQUARTERS

I followed Paul in my car to the Democratic Headquarters (640 E. Woodson Ave.). A simple limestone building, it was once a cabin/meeting space for the Democratic Party from 1854-1861. Men discussed political issues and planned strategies there.

In later years, it was used as a railroad pay station by the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad. Today, it is maintained by the Lecompton Historical Society and houses furnishings one might have used during the pre-Civil War era. When you stand inside and look out the windows, you can almost imagine boat traffic on the river. A beautiful location, it’s not uncommon to see eagles flying in the area during fall, winter, and spring.

OTHER INTERESTING PLACES TO DISCOVER

EMPTY NESTER’S WINERY

Aside from hosting history seekers, Lecompton is home to several businesses including Empty Nester’s Winery (338 Elmore St.). Owned and operated by a husband and wife team, they serve a variety of fruit wines. Surprisingly, the wines didn’t taste as sweet as I expected. Paul and I sipped on peach wine slushes during our tour of the facility.

While Vickie prepped pumpkins for a future wine, Troy told that it takes six months from fermentation to bottling to produce a taste-worthy wine. Opened in January 2021, visitors can choose from four dry wines and 12 semi-sweet wines for a tasting flight.

When they’re not busy making wine or socializing with customers, they also make preserves, jams, and jellies available for sale in the tasting room.

Empty Nester’s Winery focuses on quality wine and excellent customer service. They host game night on Thursdays and invite a food truck to park out front on occasion. To view the winery’s hours and learn about entertaining events, view the Facebook page.

BALD EAGLE MERCANTILE

You can find anything and everything for sale at Bald Eagle Mercantile (336 Elmore St.). The search for the perfect something to bring home is a part of the fun. The shelves are stocked with timeless gifts and items you didn’t know you needed until you saw them.

Open since 2010, shoppers are greeted by Kathy and her employees with a warm smile and helped them find “goods for the journey.” It’s only appropriate that Kathy owns a store in the heart of Lecompton since she is a descendant of Albert G. Boone, one of the town’s founders. He was also a shopkeeper.

The store hosts flea market events on Elmore Street as well as Fabric Fridays. Kathy said she has plans to expand her business and bring in more sellers. Stay up-to-date on Bald Eagle Mercantile happenings here.

C&C CLOTHING/CLAYMAMA’S ART WORKSHOP

Next door to Bald Eagle Mercantile is Claymama’s Art Workshop and C&C Clothing (338 Elmore St.) store under the same roof. When the owner isn’t in the studio creating beautiful jewelry, she is greeting customers in the retail space. The store is filled with consignment clothing and apparel for women of all sizes.

Shoppers are surrounded by walls of colorful artwork and an abundance of handcrafted jewelry for sale. Rings resemble twisted metalwork. Earrings made from leather and beads dangle on display. Clay pots hold earrings and bracelets designed with care.

If you’re not able to make it to Lecompton, you can still shop the boutique online. C&C Clothing sells items live via Facebook every Thursday at 7pm. Never miss a moment of the shopping fun by following the Facebook page here.

LECOMPTON MURAL

Don’t leave town without seeing the fantastic mural painted by Perry-Lecompton High School graduate, Rick Wright. Its vibrant colors showcase symbols that represent the town’s history dating back to 1858. The Latin motto in the eagle’s grasp reads, “Born of the Popular Will.”

Completed last June, “Resilience” is a 60′ mural funded by donations to Lecompton Community Pride. Wright recently finished a painting of the former Lecompton High School, which is on display at the entrance to the building. Visit Wright’s TikTok page to watch his painting in progress.

LUNCH

NOTE: As of September 9, 2022, Kroeger Country Meats no longer operates as a retail walk-in business. The family retired. 

As our tour of Lecompton was wrapping up, Paul had one more stop for me. I followed him to a building on the edge of town, Kroeger Country Meats (505 Eisenhower Memorial Dr.).

The family-owned business was started by the father, who paid his way through college by cutting meat.

The butcher shop is well known in the county and beyond for its high-quality meats. Two generations of Kroegers run and operate the store on a daily basis, which is necessary to keep up with business. The store attracts passersby and tourists from outside of town who make special trips to Kroegers to stock up on fresh-cut meats, jerky, and bulk and link-style sausage.

Other visitors stop by to indulge in delicious burgers served fresh to order for each customer. When you visit, simply walk up to the counter meat counter and place your order. Once it’s finished, you can add burger toppings from the self-service salad bar nearby. My single cheeseburger was scrumptious. It alone was worth stopping at Kroegers to enjoy.

Serving customers since 1984, the multi-generational butcher shop uses only Boston butts to make sausage. You can expect to find new sausage varieties as they are always fine-tuning recipes.

When the butcher told me that Kroegers’ meats appeared on the chef-prepared menus within the county, including some of my favorite restaurants in Lawrence, I walked straight to the reach-in refrigerator to select frozen sausage to bring home.

Kroeger has partnerships with breweries and the beer is used in the sausage-making process. (Note: I prepared my sausage links, made with Freestate Brewing Company’s Garden Party Lager, once I returned home. They were some of the best sausages I’ve ever tasted.)  To view the store’s hours, visit the Facebook page.

Bulk style sausage $5.99/lb, Link style sausage $8.99/lb

My experience in Lecompton was a delightful one. I was sad to say goodbye to Paul and the residents of the town. As I took to the highway to head for home, I knew that I would be back. I would return with friends or family next time because they need to experience historic Lecompton “a small town with a big history.”

Did you learn something new about Kansas history? Perhaps you’ve already visited Lecompton? Share your comments below. I’d love to hear from you.

 

Filed Under: Kansas, Travel Tagged With: antiques, antislavery, artifacts, burger, butcher, butcher shop, cafe, capital, Christmas, Civil War, Constitution Hall, Democratic, eagle, jail, Kansas, Lecompton, limestone, museum, politics, Quantrill, river, sausage, Territorial Capital Museum, tombstone, trees, walking tour, wine, winery

Lawrence, Kansas: A Historical Tour

August 23, 2021 by Vanessa Whiteside Leave a Comment

 Disclosure: Unmistakably Lawrence sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

Having lived at one time in my life in Lawrence, Kansas, I returned for a visit to study the town’s history and to experience the events surrounding Civil War on the Border. The experience helped me to better understand how significant figures in the state’s history impacted the town during a time referred to as Bleeding Kansas.

Prior to the Civil War, feuds between pro-slavery Missourians and anti-slavery Kansans raged erupting in Lawrence in 1863. Confederate leader William Quantrill led a band of 400 men on horseback to attack the men and teenage boys. They burned homes and businesses to the ground. Some totals report that over 150 people were killed. Those who escaped death hid in cornfields or underground. Their accounts of that day tell the story.

Today, Lawrence is a thriving town, rebuilt itself on more than one occasion from conflict. The college town is home to the University of Kansas. Downtown businesses include eclectic eateries, breweries, boutique shopping, taverns, and bars. But many of the town’s original buildings remain as a testament to the town’s will to survive, including The Eldridge Hotel.

LODGING

THE ELDRIDGE HOTEL

I jumped at the opportunity when Explore Lawrence invited me to stay overnight in Lawrence to learn more about the town’s historical value. I had been inside The Eldridge Hotel on more than one occasion and even hosted my college graduation there, but I had never experienced it as a hotel guest.

Originally built in 1855 and called the Free State Hotel, it was one of the tallest most beautiful buildings in town. Unfortunately, its fate was doomed. In 1856, the hotel was burned to the ground by pro-slavery forces. Later rebuilt by Colonel Eldridge it was destroyed again in an 1863 attack. Quantrill and his men rode into Lawrence and burned much of the town to the ground. Like a phoenix, the hotel rose from the ashes when it was rebuilt again.

The hotel is considered haunted. Hotel employees have seen Colonel Eldridge’s ghost sitting in an original hotel chair in storage. A photograph taken in the lobby shows a ghostly spirit standing in the lobby’s elevator. Room 506 is considered to be the most haunted guest room in the hotel, and it is considered the colonel’s favorite spot. Of course, I requested room 506 for my overnight stay.

Having lived in a haunted house on Kentucky Street during my college years, I was prepared to experience unexpected noises. Later in the evening, after returning to the room and just in time to escape a raging thunderstorm outside, the ceiling fan’s lights flickered multiple times. Was it his ghost? The next morning, I discovered my new laptop’s battery was dead. I had charged it to full power before arriving at the hotel. Was it the ghost’s way of letting me know its presence? I’ll let you decide. I didn’t sleep soundly that night.

In 1932, the Bonnie and Clyde Gang stayed at the hotel and later robbed the bank across the street. They fled across state lines without issue. According to an article on The Eldridge’s website, the gang made off with over $33,000. You can read more about the hotel’s history and ongoing renovations here.

The hotel serves as a venue for guests who want to celebrate weddings, reunions, and private gatherings for up to 180 guests. The ballroom pictured below includes original crown molding, archways with windows, and crystal chandeliers. The hotel’s concierge wanted to show us other rooms of historical significance, so he took us to a few private areas not open to the public.

We entered what looked to be a boiler room of sorts that included a narrow, steep staircase without a railing. It was time to scale the stairs to see Colonel Eldridge’s favorite chair first-hand. I climbed the stairs steadying myself with my hands upon each stair. There it was! A dusty ornate chair that many employees say they’ve seen Eldridge sitting on smoking his pipe. Would you want to see the chair for yourself?

All in all, my stay at The Eldridge was exceptional. The hotel stay went above and beyond to cater to my curiosity about the hotel’s history by taking me on a guided tour and telling me the background story of many of the black and white photographs hanging in the lobby.

The hotel bar staff was hospitable and welcoming. My room, although haunted, offered stunning views of downtown Lawrence on the anniversary eve of Quantrill’s Raid on Lawrence. By all accounts, it was a delightful stay that I’d recommend anyone experience.

HISTORIC TOURS

BLEEDING KANSAS BUS TOUR

On Saturday afternoon, we gathered with others at Watkins Museum of History (1047 Massachusetts St.) for the Bleeding Kansas Bus Tour. Our first stop took us to the Robert H Miller Home and Farm (111 E. 19th St.) in East Lawrence. Miller was an Underground Railroad conductor who hid runaway slaves on his 160 acres of property. Miller, a successful farmer, built the home in 1858. The Oregon Trail lies directly in front of the home, making it a high-traffic area. Slaves were trying to get freedom to Topeka and other northern territories like Canada. The Millers provided them with temporary shelter and food.

Quantrill and his men rode up to the house with 400 men on horseback on his way from the town of Franklin to raid Lawrence on August 21, 1863. He was recognized by one of the Miller daughters. She greeted him. He and one of his men most likely stayed overnight at the home week’s prior when on a scouting mission. Quantrill and his men acknowledged the daughter and then left. They killed a nearby cow farmer and went to Lawrence to kill more men. Why didn’t Quantrill kill the Millers? Perhaps because they remembered them fondly from an earlier encounter.

Now, the home is a private residence, but the homeowners often invite guided tours to visit the property.

The second stop on the bus tour took us to the Grover Barn (2819 Stonebarn Terrance), an underground railroad station on the south side of the town built in 1858. When Abolitionist leader John Brown made his final journey through Kansas, the Grover Barn was where he stopped.

During our tour, an actor playing the role of John Brown told us the story of the Grover Barn. There, Brown traveled with a slave family on their way to find safety and freedom. The limestone barn is considered one of the best-preserved Underground Railroad sites and is listed on the Lawrence Register of Historic Places.

Take a look at the walls in the photo below. The crudeness of the limestone barn’s constructions is awe-inspiring. I encourage you to visit the historic structure to see the hand-hewn wood beams up close. In 1980, the City of Lawrence repurposed the building to use as a fire station and later for storage. Today, the preserved barn is a historical location of pre-Civil War significance and where Brown and freedom seekers stayed during their journey.

The final stop of the Bleeding Kansas Bus Tour took us to the Spencer Museum of Art (1301 Mississippi) on the University of Kansas campus. Our tour group had an early opportunity to view newly framed prints by African American Jacob Lawrence. The screenprint series “The Legend of John Brown” tells the chronological story of John Brown’s life. Was he a martyr or a religious zealot? The 22 screenprints depict Brown’s life choices to lead anti-slavery troops to maintain Kansas as a free state. Often, Brown’s tactics included violence, which many say contributed to the rise of the Civil War. “The Legend of John Brown” print series collection is displayed in a small gallery.

Brown was sentenced to death by hanging only minutes before the Civil War began.

Also displayed was a lithograph by artist John Steuart Curry created in 1939. The famous image shows Brown’s arms outstretched with a tornado and wildfires in the distance. Some say these images were depicted as a prelude to the Civil War. Contact the museum for details regarding touring the collection. Admission to the Spencer Museum of Art is free. Plan your visit here.

WATKINS MUSEUM GUIDED TOUR

After the bus tour, I met an employee of Watkins Historical Museum (1047 Massachusetts St.) for a private tour of the iconic building. Built in 1975 by JB Watkins as the Watkins Land Mortgage and National Bank Building, it is an artifact of an earlier time in the town’s history.

The building’s founder loved ornate architecture and the finest materials available. The building is a masterpiece with its marble staircases, salvaged stained glass windows, hand-carved woodwork, and marble mosaic flooring. The bank originally functioned as a place where farmers came for land loans. Later, it was donated to the city and was used as City Hall until 1970.

For the last 10 years, Watkins Historical Museum began welcoming visitors to tour the building and its permanent exhibits for free. Four smaller rotating exhibits are updated about every six months. The permanent collections’ themes range from Lawrence’s history to University of Kansas basketball to pioneer life artifacts.

The space in the photo below is part of Watkins’ original office, which still includes his fireplace, bank vault, and shutter-covered windows. Artifacts from his wife’s contribution to the University of Kansas are included near the space.

Elizabeth Watkins donated much of their wealth after JB’s death to build the Watkins Scholarship Hall and the Watkins Nurses Home. A considerable amount of the couple’s earnings were donated to the KU Endowment Association without instructions for its use.

An authentic electric car sits on display in one corner of the museum. The Milburn Light Electric car was owned by Lawrence resident Eleanor Henley who used it to run errands in town. When you visit the car, look inside! It doesn’t have a steering wheel. How did Eleanor drive it? You’ll have to take a trip to the museum to find out.

Below are two significant items from the University of Kansas’ basketball program’s history. James Naismith used the desk in the Robinson Gymnasium on the KU campus. It most likely was also used by Forrest “Phog” Allen. If you open the desk’s drawer, you will see handwritten locker combinations, which may have belonged to the basketball players’ lockers. Allen designed the 1940s practice backboard for his students to teach them how to arc the basketball. Other artifacts on display include a team jersey worn by Jawhawk Adrian Mitchell-Newell.

 Individuals and groups are welcome to visit for self-guided tours, although the museum prefers to prepare for visiting students. To find out more about visiting the museum and its collections, view their Facebook page.

DINNER

FREE STATE BREWING CO.

There is no better place on Mass Street in downtown Lawrence to enjoy a meal and a craft beer than Free State Brewing Co. (636 Massachusetts St). Kansas’ original craft brewery has been serving flagship beers, rotating seasonal selections, and limited selections for decades.

During my visit, I requested the John Brown Ale, but it wasn’t available. Instead, I happily settled for Free State Lager. I was happy to be back at Free State, where I frequented on Monday $1-pint night during my college years.

Their menu has always included items made from fresh ingredients with flair. You won’t find standard pub grub at Free State. The menu options appeal to foodies who appreciate unique flavor combinations and the freshest ingredients. We enjoyed the Filipino Egg Rolls with Sesame Chile Soy Dipping Sauce as an appetizer. We shared the Nashville Chicken Mac and Free State Fish and Chips for dinner. Both entrees exceeded our expectations.

I highly recommend stopping at Free State Brewing Co. for lunch or dinner during your visit to Lawrence. Although they are not hosting brewery tours now, you can check their Facebook events page for upcoming trivia nights or festival celebrations.

Locals and visitors alike love the brewery’s vibe. Limited patio seating allows patrons to watch Mass Street happenings with a beer in hand. You may find a street performer nearby playing music.

EXPLORING MASS STREET

BUILDINGS, SHOPPING, PARKS, DRINKS

The following morning, I rose early to walk the quiet streets of downtown Lawrence before the stores opened. I navigated to South Park, established in 1854,  just beyond 11th and Mass Streets. It is the town’s oldest park and was a location that suffered the wrath of Quantrill’s Raid. In later years, it served as a picturesque location for outdoor concerts, festivals, antiwar rallies, and women’s rights protests.

How could such a beautiful green space have once been the site of devastation? It’s hard to imagine, but it’s true. On the way there, I admired the Douglas County Courthouse (1100 Massachusetts St.) ‘s architectural features. Construction of the building took place in 1904, with a dedication following a year later.

My explorations led me to Black Stag Brewery (623 Mass St.) for a cold one.  A massive space, it also includes a covered patio. It’s the kind of place where locals strike up conversations with you.

Stop in for a beer and stay for a meal from the grill or opt for a shareable platter. Unsure what beer you want a pint of? Ask the bartender for samples. I enjoyed tastings for the Mosaic Dream IPA and 1865 Black Stag. Eventually, I committed to the Founding Fathers’ Tavern Tale, which seemed an appropriate choice given my mission to uncover Lawrence’s history.

When in Lawrence, I also like to revisit a few tried and true hangouts. Eight Street Taproom (801 New Hampshire St.) is an escape from the hustle of downtown and the heat of a Kansas summer day. The dark dive bar is a cool place to enjoy a beer or cocktail to the sounds of indie music and a busy billiards table.

The downstairs bar opens after the sun goes down and often features live bands. It’s home to hipsters and townies who have been calling it one of their favorite bars for decades. You’ll appreciate their impressive beer collection.

CEMETERY TOUR

OAK HILL CEMETERY

Just as the evening was coming to a close, I joined a group of history fans at the Oak Hill Cemetery (1605 Oak Hill Avenue) to hear stories of early Lawerence and view the graves of victims from Quantrill’s Raid. It serves as a final burial spot for many, including 81 widowed women after the raid. Some notable people buried were Kansas politicians. James H. Lane was the first U.S. Senator from Kansas, and his grave was the first burial monument added to the cemetery (pictured below).

With flashlights in hand to guide the way after sundown, our group listened to a Watkins Museum of History curator recounts the details of those who lost their lives in the raid.

If you visit the cemetery, look for The Citizen’s Memorial, which reminds you of 50 unidentified men and boys who died during Quantrill’s Raid. To view these graves and others like it, use this map to locate Section 1 and Section 2.

DRINKS 

JOHN BROWN’S UNDERGROUND

My final stop for the evening was for craft cocktails at John Brown’s Underground (7 E 7th St). After entering this basement bar, I realized it was unlike any “typical” college town establishment. One detail that defines it differently from other bars in the area is that John Brown’s Underground requires reservations for indoor seating.

The space transports you to a surreal environment with low lighting, mood music, and a menu that reads like an excerpt from someone’s diary. A friendly server helped me choose a cocktail recipe from a long list of options. Since it was the eve of the anniversary of Quantrill’s Raid, I chose the John Brown made from whiskey, rum, demerara sugar, and bitters. It was spirit-forward but smooth. My boyfriend opted for the Fever Dream Nova gin cocktail with basil and mango. It came with Lemongrass Pop Rocks on the side. Both drinks included a square ice cube embossed with a chair on them. Why a chair?

Ironically, the patron on the right was wearing a white shirt with chairs on it. Coincidence?

The chair symbol is a major part of the John Brown Underground story and aesthetic. For the employees, of which many had it tattooed on their arms, it represents the chair John Brown sat on while protecting slaves on the underground railroad. For them, it represents safety, looking out for one another, and a general sense of kindness. The employees are passionate about the tavern’s mission to create a welcoming atmosphere, best symbolized by the chair. When enjoying time at the bar, ask your server more about it.

A wall of infused spirits.

DOWNTOWN HISTORICAL TOUR

QUANTRILL’S RAID WALKING TOUR

Intrigued about all I had learned about Bleeding Kansas, I attended Quantrill’s Raid Walking Tour hosted by local historian John Jewell the following morning. He led about a dozen of us around downtown Lawrence starting at the Watkins History Museum and to the main of locations where fighting and bloodshed took place during the raid. A historical marker identifies the House Building. It was the only structure left standing on that black after the raid.

During the tour, Jewell pointed to buildings that were rebuilt after that fateful date in history. A post-raid campaign was the focus of community members who wanted to rebuild a shattered community. Lawrence’s downtown district is a testament to their will to survive.

BREAKFAST

LADYBIRD DINER

Hungry for breakfast before leaving Lawrence, we stopped at Ladybird Diner (721 Massachusetts St.). Sometimes the places we stop to eat when on the road are not originally a part of the travel plan, and they turn out to be delightful. When in Lawrence, choose to have breakfast followed by homemade pie at Ladybird Diner.

We enjoyed Avocado Toast with Scrambled Eggs and Huevos Rancheros with Corn Tortillas. With room left for dessert, I selected a slice of peach pie made with latticework crust. Beyond delicious. He said, “It’s one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever had.”

We will return to the diner during a return visit to Lawrence. Until then, I may have to learn how to copy the Huevos Rancheros recipe at home.

Make sure to look inside the rotating pie cabinet before choosing your selection. Warning: Your mouth will water.

BONUS HISTORICAL STOP

KANSAS STATE CAPITOL (TOPEKA)

A visit to the Kansas State Capitol (SW 8th & SW Van Buren St., Topeka) wouldn’t be complete without viewing John Steuart Curry’s “Tragic Prelude” painting on display on the second floor’s east wing featuring John Brown. This painting and others he did for the capitol brought criticism, so the Kansas legislature caved to public pressure and demanded that the “marble panels not be removed and thus put an end to Curry’s rotunda murals” (Source: kshs.org).

Curry did not finish the paintings and left the statehouse murals unsigned. What do you think the images in the painting represent, given the turmoil of the time?

The original sword belonging to Brown is also on display in a rotunda room not far from the Kansas Constitution. It is part of a larger collection of artifacts that tell the story of when Kansas Territory was established on the brink of the Civil War. We got lucky and visited the capital minutes before a guided tour was about to begin.

To view public viewing hours and tour information, visit this page. It is an impressive building worth viewing at least once in your lifetime, especially if you’re a Kansas native.

To truly understand a town’s existence, you must dive deep into its history books. Peruse its museums. Walk its streets. I invite you to travel to Lawrence and visit these historical places and the ones that welcome visitors today. It’s a town near and dear to my heart, and now I appreciate it that much more.

If you want to learn more about the best places to check out when in Lawrence, leave your questions below or head over to Unmistakeably Lawrence to plan your visit.

 

Filed Under: Kansas, Travel Tagged With: artifacts, bars, Bleeding Kansas, brewery, capital, cemetery, Civil War, diner, downtown, Eldridge Hotel, Free State, history, John Brown, Kansas, Lawrence, museum, Oak Hill, park, Quantrill, Topeka, underground bar, University of Kansas, walking tour, Watkins

Primary Sidebar

SEARCH

Ammar
Hello! I'm Vanessa. Welcome to One Delightful Life, a blog created to add more delight to your life with delicious recipes, travel destinations, and lifestyle improvement ideas. Thanks for exploring my blog!

Archives

Contact Us

  • Email
    info@onedelightfullife.com

Popular Posts

Back to School Brain Breaks12K Total Shares
Going Underground in Historic Ellinwood, KansasGoing Underground in Historic Ellinwood, Kansas7K Total Shares
Weston, Missouri: Making the Most of a Weekend VisitWeston, Missouri: Making the Most of a Weekend Visit2K Total Shares
Cucumber Lime Vodka SplashCucumber Lime Vodka Splash1K Total Shares
Experience Sun Palace: A Couples-Only Resort in Cancun, MexicoExperience Sun Palace: A Couples-Only Resort in Cancun, Mexico576 Total Shares
  • About
  • Travel
  • Taste
  • DIY
  • Lifestyle
  • 100 Things to Do in Wichita Before You Die
  • Contact

© 2023 · onedelightfullife ·