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Lecompton, Kansas: A Charming Town With Historic Landmarks

November 23, 2021 by Vanessa Whiteside Leave a Comment

Disclosure: Kansas I-70 Association sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

One aspect of travel that motivates me to take to the road is to learn about an area’s history. Take Exit 197 from Kansas I-70 to Lecompton, Kansas and you have arrived at the Birthplace of the Civil War and the Territorial Capital of Kansas from 1855-1861.

Located between Topeka and Lawrence, the quaint town is home to a friendly community that welcomes tourists interested in learning about its impact on American history. In addition to historical buildings and tours, travelers will appreciate the downtown area for its charming small businesses.

During my visit, I was met by the town’s top historian, Paul, who took me on a guided tour of Lecompton’s landmarks and businesses. It’s not every day that your tour guide is dressed as a reenactor or as the infamous Samuel Jones, a Douglas County sheriff who helped Lecompton play a role in the Bleeding Kansas conflict. This was going to be fun.

BREAKFAST

Paul joined me at Aunt Netters Cafe (336 Elmore) as I dined on Country Fried Steak and Eggs. The restaurant is the sole gathering spot for locals and people passing through town during the breakfast and lunch hours. Known for serving homestyle food and gourmet baked goods, the place was buzzing with conversation.

The meal was scrumptious and the menu prices were reasonable for the portion sizes. If you’re passing through northeast Kansas in route to Lawrence or Bonner Springs, stop by for a plate of pancakes, biscuits and sausage gravy, or breakfast sandwich. The lunch menu is just as appetizing. (View the cafe’s hours here.)

As Paul introduced me to the history of Lecompton, he pointed out the wall decorated with the town’s history “The Lecompton Swindle”. I quickly surmised that Lecompton was a town prideful about making its mark in history dating back to its founding in 1854.

With breakfast complete, we set out on our trek through town.

EARLY DAYS

The town was originally named Bald Eagle (yes, that’s right!) but was later renamed Lecompton by a judge. It sits on the south bank of the Kansas river making it a prime place to view eagles nesting along its banks.

CONSTITUTION HALL

Dressed as the pro-slavery sheriff Samuel J. Jones, Paul led us to Constitution Hall (319 Elmore St.) directly across the street from the cafe. A visit to the town is not complete without immersing yourself in its history and this should be the first site on your self-guided tour.

Constitution Hall is listed as a National Landmark, Kansas Historic Site and was a finalist as one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas. Built in 1856, it was the site where the Lecompton Constitution was written by pro-slavery advocates.

The famous document was rejected in the 1858 election. To learn more about how Kansas was eventually admitted to the Union as a free state on January 29, 1861, visit this website page. A copy of the actual document is on display in the hall.

The Lecompton Constitution caused a major rift between members of the Democratic Party. Word spread to the White House. You can read more about the document and the Lincoln-Douglas debates inside Constitution Hall.

Because of the conflict that took place at the site, it is said that Lecompton was the original Birthplace of the Civil War. To take a deep dive into the state’s history during this time, visit the Kansas Historical Society’s site here.

As we walked on the creaky wood floors, I learned that the hall is the oldest wood-frame building in the state still standing in its original location. The sunlight beamed through the windows. We were standing where Kansas history took place. The Kansas Supreme Court once met upstairs. Some of the artifacts on display include the box used for fake ballots, an office safe, and a land office desk owned by Daniel Boone’s grandson.

If you’d like to visit Constitution Hall, it is open to individuals and small groups Wednesday-Sunday. Adult admission is $3. I found the employee on-site to be extremely knowledgeable and willing to answer questions. I’d recommend at least 30 minutes for a tour.

If you want to visit with a large group, a courtesy call to museum staff at least two weeks in advance is appreciated. View the hall’s hours here.

LECOMPTON CITY JAIL

Sitting in the shadow of Constitution Hall is the old Lecompton City Jail (315 Elmore St.) The tiny, one-room structure was originally built by Sheriff Jones.

Of course, it was fitting that Paul had a key to the jail. He ushered me inside. After a few seconds of standing in the musty dark room, I was ready to exit. There was very little sunlit peeking through the iron window bars.

The story goes that Jones, a pro-slavery sheriff, was shot in the back by free state forces. He helped in the effort to burn down Lawrence, Kansas in 1856. His original tombstone was moved from Las Cruces, New Mexico, and sits on display in front of the jail.

TERRITORIAL CAPITAL MUSEUM

Another important stop on the tour was Territorial Capital Museum (640 E. Woodson), a towering limestone multi-story structure. Did you know that Lecompton was the state’s capital until Topeka earned the title in 1861? The 1855 legislature voted for it. The town was a bustling center for political discourse.

The museum sits on the former 13-acre Lecompton capital square district and was constructed in 1855. The budget was $50,000, but eventually, the money ran out. When antislavery legislators gained control of the territorial legislature, the location of Kansas’ capital was moved to Topeka. This action was detrimental to the town. Later, the building became known as Lane University where reportedly seventy-five co-ed students studied there.

Now, the building serves as a museum that is open to visitors who want to come inside view rooms of historical artifacts. Paul wanted me to experience history first-hand by attaching a ball and chain to my boots. The 20lb. weight, dating back to the early 1900s made by Leavenworth prisoners, was nearly impossible to walk with when attached. Other museum artifacts included Civil War weapons, documents, and an extensive collection of the town’s memorabilia.

Did you read the blog post I wrote about Quantrill’s Raid in Lawrence, Kansas? Prior to the Civil War, feuds between pro-slavery Missourians and antislavery Kansans raged erupting in Lawrence in 1863. Confederate leader William Quantrill led a band of 400 men on horseback to attack the men and teenage boys. They burned homes and businesses to the ground.

During my tour, every inch of the space was decorated with 200+ Christmas trees, an annual tradition that attracts tourists to town from November 1-January 1. Each tree was adorned with Victorian, antique, and themed ornaments. It’s well worth stopping at the museum if only to see the holiday trees, a sight to behold.

I’d recommend devoting about an hour of your time in town to tour the museum. Admission is free, but a $3 donation is kindly accepted. If you have questions about the artifacts in the cases, a volunteer is on hand to answer them for you. View the museum’s hours here.

DEMOCRATIC HEADQUARTERS

I followed Paul in my car to the Democratic Headquarters (640 E. Woodson Ave.). A simple limestone building, it was once a cabin/meeting space for the Democratic Party from 1854-1861. Men discussed political issues and planned strategies there.

In later years, it was used as a railroad pay station by the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad. Today, it is maintained by the Lecompton Historical Society and houses furnishings one might have used during the pre-Civil War era. When you stand inside and look out the windows, you can almost imagine boat traffic on the river. A beautiful location, it’s not uncommon to see eagles flying in the area during fall, winter, and spring.

OTHER INTERESTING PLACES TO DISCOVER

EMPTY NESTER’S WINERY

Aside from hosting history seekers, Lecompton is home to several businesses including Empty Nester’s Winery (338 Elmore St.). Owned and operated by a husband and wife team, they serve a variety of fruit wines. Surprisingly, the wines didn’t taste as sweet as I expected. Paul and I sipped on peach wine slushes during our tour of the facility.

While Vickie prepped pumpkins for a future wine, Troy told that it takes six months from fermentation to bottling to produce a taste-worthy wine. Opened in January 2021, visitors can choose from four dry wines and 12 semi-sweet wines for a tasting flight.

When they’re not busy making wine or socializing with customers, they also make preserves, jams, and jellies available for sale in the tasting room.

Empty Nester’s Winery focuses on quality wine and excellent customer service. They host game night on Thursdays and invite a food truck to park out front on occasion. To view the winery’s hours and learn about entertaining events, view the Facebook page.

BALD EAGLE MERCANTILE

You can find anything and everything for sale at Bald Eagle Mercantile (336 Elmore St.). The search for the perfect something to bring home is a part of the fun. The shelves are stocked with timeless gifts and items you didn’t know you needed until you saw them.

Open since 2010, shoppers are greeted by Kathy and her employees with a warm smile and helped them find “goods for the journey.” It’s only appropriate that Kathy owns a store in the heart of Lecompton since she is a descendant of Albert G. Boone, one of the town’s founders. He was also a shopkeeper.

The store hosts flea market events on Elmore Street as well as Fabric Fridays. Kathy said she has plans to expand her business and bring in more sellers. Stay up-to-date on Bald Eagle Mercantile happenings here.

C&C CLOTHING/CLAYMAMA’S ART WORKSHOP

Next door to Bald Eagle Mercantile is Claymama’s Art Workshop and C&C Clothing (338 Elmore St.) store under the same roof. When the owner isn’t in the studio creating beautiful jewelry, she is greeting customers in the retail space. The store is filled with consignment clothing and apparel for women of all sizes.

Shoppers are surrounded by walls of colorful artwork and an abundance of handcrafted jewelry for sale. Rings resemble twisted metalwork. Earrings made from leather and beads dangle on display. Clay pots hold earrings and bracelets designed with care.

If you’re not able to make it to Lecompton, you can still shop the boutique online. C&C Clothing sells items live via Facebook every Thursday at 7pm. Never miss a moment of the shopping fun by following the Facebook page here.

LECOMPTON MURAL

Don’t leave town without seeing the fantastic mural painted by Perry-Lecompton High School graduate, Rick Wright. Its vibrant colors showcase symbols that represent the town’s history dating back to 1858. The Latin motto in the eagle’s grasp reads, “Born of the Popular Will.”

Completed last June, “Resilience” is a 60′ mural funded by donations to Lecompton Community Pride. Wright recently finished a painting of the former Lecompton High School, which is on display at the entrance to the building. Visit Wright’s TikTok page to watch his painting in progress.

LUNCH

NOTE: As of September 9, 2022, Kroeger Country Meats no longer operates as a retail walk-in business. The family retired.

As our tour of Lecompton was wrapping up, Paul had one more stop for me. I followed him to a building on the edge of town, Kroeger Country Meats (505 Eisenhower Memorial Dr.).

The family-owned business was started by the father, who paid his way through college by cutting meat.

The butcher shop is well known in the county and beyond for its high-quality meats. Two generations of Kroegers run and operate the store on a daily basis, which is necessary to keep up with business. The store attracts passersby and tourists from outside of town who make special trips to Kroegers to stock up on fresh-cut meats, jerky, and bulk and link-style sausage.

Other visitors stop by to indulge in delicious burgers served fresh to order for each customer. When you visit, simply walk up to the counter meat counter and place your order. Once it’s finished, you can add burger toppings from the self-service salad bar nearby. My single cheeseburger was scrumptious. It alone was worth stopping at Kroegers to enjoy.

Serving customers since 1984, the multi-generational butcher shop uses only Boston butts to make sausage. You can expect to find new sausage varieties as they are always fine-tuning recipes.

When the butcher told me that Kroegers’ meats appeared on the chef-prepared menus within the county, including some of my favorite restaurants in Lawrence, I walked straight to the reach-in refrigerator to select frozen sausage to bring home.

Kroeger has partnerships with breweries and the beer is used in the sausage-making process. (Note: I prepared my sausage links, made with Freestate Brewing Company’s Garden Party Lager, once I returned home. They were some of the best sausages I’ve ever tasted.) To view the store’s hours, visit the Facebook page.

Bulk style sausage $5.99/lb, Link style sausage $8.99/lb

My experience in Lecompton was a delightful one. I was sad to say goodbye to Paul and the residents of the town. As I took to the highway to head for home, I knew that I would be back. I would return with friends or family next time because they need to experience historic Lecompton “a small town with a big history.”

Did you learn something new about Kansas history? Perhaps you’ve already visited Lecompton? Share your comments below. I’d love to hear from you.

Manhattan, Kansas: The Gateway to the Flint Hills and Fun

November 9, 2021 by Vanessa Whiteside Leave a Comment

Disclosure: Kansas I-70 Association sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

The more time I spend in Manhattan, the more I love it. The college town, home to Kansas State University, has what seems to be an endless list of things to do ranging from outdoor recreation to indoor dining.

There is a reason they refer to the town as “Manhappening,” a sensibility you come to understand quickly. I was thankful to be asked to return to town to explore places on my travel bucket list. But first, I needed to check into the newest hotel in the central business district, Aggieville.

LODGING

Courtyard by Marriott (715 N. 12th St.) opened during the summer of 2021 directly across from KSU’s campus. Nestled in the heart of Aggieville, it is the ideal place to stay if you’re hoping to walk to nearby shopping or dining. If you’re a Wildcat sports fan, it’s top-notch for accommodations when celebrating game day.

One of the perks of staying at the hotel is valet parking, which is the only way to park your car when at the hotel. It’s convenient, the valet staff works around the clock, and always greets you with a smile. They’ll even advise you where to dine out in Aggieville if you ask. Don’t forget to tip the staff.

The rooms are well designed with plenty of room to enjoy one’s stay. My room included a couch (in KSU’s purple, of course!), a plush king bed, and in-room amenities, including a refrigerator. With a view of campus, I could envision KSU families staying here when attending events on campus.

Other amenities you can expect while at Courtyard by Marriott include a fitness center open 24/7, a Starbucks coffee bar featuring small plate breakfast items, and an exquisite lounge with a gas fireplace. Order a cocktail or locally made craft beer at the bar and head to the outdoor patio for a pre-dinner drink.

Restaurants within a short walking distance of the hotel in “The Ville” that I’ve tried and wholeheartedly recommend include So Long Saloon, Taco Lucha, and Rock-a-Billy Bar & Deli.

BREAKFAST

FLIGHT CREW COFFEE

Wheels up! Flight Crew Coffee (423 Poyntz Ave.), in historic Manhattan, is ready to serve you. Opened this fall, the cafe is bustling with business. And for a good reason. The owner, Heather, has thought of every detail to ensure your “in-flight service” is seamless.

A bit of nostalgia and a bit of class. the cafe’s interior transports you to aviation heaven. Navy blue walls, black and white prints of airplanes, and a cozy fireplace invite you to nestle up with a coffee in hand. Jazz music plays in the background.

I enjoyed a steaming chai tea with a Quiche Lorraine for breakfast. As they say, “Our Coffee Gives You Wings,” and after my first visit to Flight Crew Coffee, my mood is flying high. Add it to your morning itinerary before stepping out to do boutique shopping. View the cafe’s hours here.

DOWNTOWN MANHATTAN

Fueled by caffeine, I was ready to shop until my heart’s content in historic downtown Manhattan. Native limestone buildings and ornate brick buildings made a stroll along Poyntz Avenue a delight. You will discover shops carrying home furnishings, clothing, fine art, and more.

SHOPPING

ROOTED FAIR TRADE

Wouldn’t you rather shop locally and buy handcrafted gifts from hardworking people? Rooted Fair Trade (327 Poyntz Ave.) sells products made by creative individuals from all over the world. Fiber art, jewelry, apparel, and artwork fill the space. Each item comes with the story of the person who made it. Fair-trade products focus on sustainability, fairness, and support workers.

I couldn’t leave without buying a gorgeous bracelet made with recycled magazine paper by women in Haiti. The company’s owner created the company after visiting the country and seeing poverty firsthand. Each purchase of Papillon jewelry supports at-risk mothers and fathers with full-time jobs in Haiti. How could I not buy it? View the store’s hours here.

BLING GLAMOUR

I walked two doors down to discover a must-visit boutique. With clothes for every season and every woman, Bling Glamour (31 Poyntz Ave.) is your one-stop shop for on-trend apparel. When I learned that it was a women-owned business, I was ready to pull out my credit card.

I was shocked at the reasonable prices. The racks, table, and shoe wall were stocked full of items I wanted to take home. You’ll appreciate the way the store is set up making selecting new apparel favorites easy. Start at the front of the store to peruse racks of new arrivals. But there’s more!

Make your way to the back to find everyday essentials and sale clothing. I can easily see why this store is popular with locals. It carries the latest looks perfect for women of every size and style. If you can’t make it to the store, you can shop online and ship it to you here. The staff is friendly and happy to help.

FURNISH

Another new store on the downtown scene is Furnish (314 Poyntz Ave.), a home furnishings store that also offers in-store furniture consultation. One tour of the store and I was ready to hire their stylist to come to my home to redesign its interior.

Shoppers on the hunt for home decor reminiscent of Restoration Hardware or Pottery Barn will feel right at home at Furnish. The showroom is filled with neutral hues with black accents. Homeowners in search of lighting, chairs, and kitchenware are in luck.

The burning candle’s scent drew me to the shelf you see below. I was happy to see a candle that I’ve purchased many times in Wichita from Nectar Republic. Nearby, accessories ranging from picture frames to books completed the vignette.

You’ll find it difficult to walk out of Furnish without a few gifts for yourself and new design ideas for your home. Plan your visit by viewing the store’s hours here.

SNW GALLERY & CUSTOM FRAMES

Without a doubt, one of the coolest stores in downtown Manhattan, SNW Gallery & Custom Frames (328 Pontyz Ave) is worth checking out. The gallery is filled with breathtaking artwork by Kansas and regional artists, often including new artists’ work.

The creaky floors and the perfectly illuminated framed artwork draw you in. Every wall of every room is adorned with artwork for sale, including pottery. While some pieces deservedly command a higher price, I found many affordable prices for the casual shopper discovering new artwork.

As a native Kansan who spends countless hours driving across the state, I appreciate the works that featured the Kansas prairie. Landscapes by Kim Casebeer and Cristine Sundquist on display showed cloud-filled skies and the sun’s rays upon the flint hills. You’ll be impressed by the breadth and quality of the collections.

Since 1981, SNW Gallery has curated and displayed paintings, prints, drawings, mixed media, and more. Intricately designed jewelry is nestled near the register. Whether shopping for yourself or someone else, you’re bound to walk away from SNW Gallery with a special piece.

If you can’t make it to the shop, you can preview the artwork and purchase it online here. Peruse their Facebook events page to learn about upcoming events, including artists’ talks.

FOOD & DRINK

TALLGRASS TAP HOUSE

On the same side of the street as the gallery, I spotted Tallgrass Tap House (320 Poyntz Ave.). I missed my chance to taste their craft beers during my last visit to Manhattan, so I ducked inside and sat at the bar. The brewpub is massive in size and draws a lunchtime crowd.

I like to taste a flight of beers during a first-time visit to a brewery. Tallgrass Tap House rotates the lineup of beers to accompany their flagship favorites. My flight came with four 5oz pours. I’d recommend trying a variety of styles but make sure to ask about their seasonals.

I appreciated Skeleton Crew, and loved the sample of Tropical Golden Ale. Visit during Happy Hour Monday-Friday from 3pm-6pm for discounts and enjoy $3 Tap House exclusives all day on Sundays. Sit on the rooftop deck during warm weather days for drinks with friends.

MANHATTAN BREWERY CO.

Stopping into Manhattan Brewery Co. (406 Poyntz Ave.) always promises a good time and a lot of beer drinking. There is just something about the friendly staff and the beers, which go down far too easily, that keeps me coming back.

Before my first beer was even finished, I was asked by Jake, the brewery’s sales and marketing guru, if I wanted to take a tour of the facility. My beer education began in the brewing area and ended in the basement cooler. I tasted the grain. I perused the rows of kegs. I peered into the tanks. What did I learn? As much as the owners joke around, they take brewing and selling craft beer seriously—the quality shows.

Keep your eyes peeled during a visit to the brewery for tiny plastic dinosaurs. The mural on the back wall makes for a nice selfie backdrop. (Female Readers: During your self-guided tour of the brewing, check out the bathroom. I’m going to leave it at that.)

As I sat at the bar and finished a Bodacious Blackberry Milkshake IPA, I learned that one of the top-selling drinks behind the bar wasn’t even a beer. It’s their house-made sangria.

For the owners of Manhattan Brewing Co., running a business is more than about slinging suds. Customer service is a priority.

Soon, Jake and I were joined at the bar. Brewers Garrett and Adam ponied grabbed a seat. Before I knew it, the four of us were walking a few doors down to Bourbon & Baker (313 Poyntz Ave), a restaurant and bar revered for its bourbon selection and gourmet small plates menu. It was an unforgettable experience.

I wholeheartedly recommend checking out both places when you visit Manhattan. View the brewery’s hours and the beers on tap here.

EL PATRON

I was overdue for lunch and knew just where I wanted to check out. Authentic tacos at El Patron (429 Poyntz Ave.) called me. It is known for serving street tacos using fresh ingredients and was ready to order.

With festive Mexican music playing in the background, I dove into soft shell tacos filled with beef and BACON. My taste buds went into overdrive. Now, I know what you’re thinking, but hold on. You haven’t lived if you haven’t tasted bacon in a street taco.

The lunch crowd clearly loved El Patron as much as I did. They drew a good size crowd made up of downtown workers and tourists. Looking around the restaurant at the plates on the tables, people were devouring fajitas, burritos, and seafood entrees. El Patron is a solid choice for lunch or dinner. View their hours to plan your visit.

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS

TOP OF THE WORLD

An employee at the art gallery insisted that I needed to drive to the Top of the World. With a name like that, how could I not? I drove to the town’s overlook. Manhattan is considered the Gateway to the Flint Hills.

Under cloud-filled skies, I walked to the top of the gravel trail to peek out over the town. If you have time, make the easy drive only minutes west of Manhattan off of Kansas Highway 113. (Ask Siri or Google Maps to navigate it.) You get a 360-degree view of the college town. Dog walkers love it. Bike trails welcome cyclists. It’s a beautiful setting.

JOHNNY KAW

A visit to Manhattan isn’t complete without driving to the Johnny Kaw statue for a photo opp. Located at City Park, the fictional character towers over visitors. He’s a legendary Kansas settler. A man who planted wheat invented sunflowers, and grew potatoes. Johnny controlled the weather and never feared tornados or clouds. Sure, he did. To read the complete story of the “Spirit of Progress,” Johnny Kaw, click here.

Visit the statue to stand in awe and read about the KSU professor, Dr. George Filinger, who invented the fictional character to honor the town’s 100th anniversary of its founding. The park includes a swimming pool, splash pad, and playground equipment perfect for a family visit.

KANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY CAMPUS

The gorgeous colors of the trees during fall dotted the Kansas State University campus, and I could hear the marching band rehearsing. I mazed my way through the campus’ limestone historic buildings, around sculptures, and statues, and I found the source of the sound.

The football field was covered with marching band members moving in formation and playing an energizing song. The band’s director shouted from a megaphone, “Remember guys, we could make it to the bowl game. Again!”

No matter what alma mater you hail from, you need to tour the beautiful KSU campus.

DINNER + DESSERT

KITE’S AGGIEVILLE DRAFT HOUSE

Most KSU college students and out-of-town visitors know the bar Kite’s in Aggieville. However, the venue recently upgraded a neighboring space as Kite’s Aggieville Draft House (617 N. 12th St.). Essentially an upscale sports bar, the restaurant offers refined menu fare like Gulf Coast Smoked Redfish Dip, Low Country Shrimp & Grits, and Southern Fried Hot Chicken Sandwich.

With the game on TV, I wanted chicken wings. They arrived piping hot. The sauce had medium heat, and the blue cheese dressing cooled it off. While it wasn’t an entree, it hit the spot. Kite’s Aggieville is a good place to visit for what I thought was the coldest beer in town. You’ll appreciate the cloth napkins and the elevated menu. View the location and hours here.

VARSITY DONUTS

I don’t think I’ll ever make it out of Manhattan without ducking into Varsity Donuts (704 N. Manhattan). Their motto, “Donuts Make People Happy,” is true whether it’s after the sun rises over The Ville or during a late-night dash to the bakery.

But this visit was extra special. Surprisingly, most of the donuts were discounted because it was only minutes before closing – score! I walked back to my hotel with two donuts, well, one because I began to devour an iced cake donut before making it to my room. Learn about their late-night back alley food truck here.

OTHER PLACES WORTHY OF A VISIT

THE DUSTY BOOKSHELF

Grab a used book and a barista-brewed coffee and sit to enjoy a new read at The Dusty Bookshelf (700 N. Manhattan). The place has a nearly perfect score out of over 200 Google reviews for a reason. As they say, “books may well be the only true magic.”

MIDWEST DREAM CAR COLLECTION

Imagine dozens of spotless classic cars and hot rods under one roof. Read about what to expect during a self-guided Midwest Dream Car Collection tour in a previous post I wrote here.

Oh, MANhattan! You’ve done it again. With more than enough to do in an overnight stay, I recommend planning for a well-spent trip to the college town. You’ll walk away with fond memories and plans to return. I hope to stop by Pool House, Sunset Zoo, and Goolsby’s the next time I’m in town.

Junction City: Incredible Places to Visit

November 4, 2021 by Vanessa Whiteside Leave a Comment

Disclosure: Kansas I-70 Association sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

Junction City in Geary County deserves a closer look. Exit from KS I-70 to discover its proud military heritage, outdoor recreation, and visit-worthy attractions. A 25-minute drive from Manhattan and only an hour from Topeka, it is nestled in the beautiful Flint Hills of North Central Kansas.

Get a closer look at this mural when standing across from Heritage Park in historic downtown Junction City.

With more than enough to do in town, I’d recommend spending at least one night in Junction City. Hotels are located within a close driving distance of historic downtown and most attractions. Before seeking adventure around town, I checked in to my accommodations.

LODGING

Courtyard by Marriott (310 Hammons Drive) offers amenities that provide a feeling of comfort when traveling. My guest room was up-to-date. It featured a king bed, workstation, and had enough room to spread out and make myself at home. The hotel was a pleasant space to return to when I wasn’t exploring the town. For travelers in search of indoor exercise options, the hotel features a pool and fitness center. Loungers will appreciate the outdoor patio featuring a fire pit. If you’re in search of a quick bite to eat, The Bistro has food to go plus Starbucks drinks.The hotel had the amenities I needed as a writer like high-speed WiFi and a spacious lobby with a business center to get work done. Its modern amenities, friendly staff, and quiet quarters made my stay worthwhile. When in Junction City, I know you’ll be pleased with your accommodations at Courtyard by Marriott.

ATTRACTIONS

The residents of Junction City, Kansas are proud of their history and heritage, and they should be. It’s the home of Fort Riley, an Army installation. Named after Major General Bennett C. Riley who led soldiers along the Santa Fe Trail, it was built in 1853 to protect the movement of people and trade over the Oregon-California and Santa Fe trails.

It’s a place where soldiers get combat-ready and train to be ready to deploy at a moment’s notice. Many of the town’s residents are soldiers and it’s common to see men and women in uniform enjoying civilian life out and about in town. So, it makes perfect sense that the town recognizes past and present soldiers at many of its attractions.

HERITAGE PARK

Smack dab in the middle of historic downtown is Heritage Park, a place that honors the soldiers and sailors who gave their lives for our country. It’s a place to learn about their sacrifice, read each one’s name, and reflect.

During your visit, read the poem by Michael O’Donnell who was killed in action in Vietnam at the State of Kansas Vietnam Veterans Memorial. Take time to view the Junction City/Geary Count Law Enforcement Memorial. The public space is also home to numerous monuments, a bicentennial time capsule, a bandstand, and a water fountain.

BUFFALO SOLDIER MEMORIAL

It’s worth the short drive to view the town’s Buffalo Soldier Memorial (1832 N Adams St.), which is a tribute to the 9th and 10th Horse Cavalry Regiments who served courageously in multiple wars. According to history.com, “the infantry regiments were created to help control the Native Americans of the Plains, capture cattle rustlers and thieves and protect stagecoaches, wagon trains, and railroad crews.” The memorial is free to visit. To learn more about Buffalo Soldiers, visit here.

GEARY COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM

Built as City Highway School in 1927, the Geary County Historical Museum (530 N Adams St.) is an incredible space filled with timelines, artifacts, and hands-on activities for history seekers. Three floors of exhibits tell the story of the people and places that make Geary County amazing. Admission to the museum is free; however, donations are accepted.

Open as a museum since 1983, the building itself is a historical artifact of Geary County. Look closely at its architectural details during a self-guided tour.

Today, visitors can experience what Main Street would have looked and sounded like inside the first-floor exhibit. As you make your way through the tack room, parlor, and kitchen areas, you naturally imagine what life might have been like during the early days of Junction City.

Another exhibit explains how Junction City got its name for the intersection of the Republican and Smoky Hill rivers. Settlers were drawn to the area for the promise of good land and river water. The town was founded in 1858 and it grew quickly over the next decade.

However, overflowing rivers and sudden rainstorms have caused havoc on the town on more than one occasion. Junction City’s residents are resilient having survived and rebounded from multiple floods. In fact, the Milford Depot was swept off its foundation after the 1936 flood.

The upper floors of the museum transport visitors to an authentic Union Pacific train depot, schoolhouse, and a large room once used as the school’s gym includes bonus artifacts that you don’t want to miss. From the history of Fort Riley to early communication tools, the museum includes well-designed, thought-provoking exhibits.

During my visit, a volunteer gave me a guided tour of the exhibits. I appreciated his extensive knowledge of the town’s history and his witty sense of humor as we meandered our way through the museum’s collections. By the end of the tour, I was better for having met him. It was a delightful experience. The museum also welcomes groups and is happy to organize tours.

C.L. HOOVER OPERA HOUSE

After it caught fire in 1898, sadly only the front exterior wall remained. After multiple remodels and renovations, it was transformed into the Opera House in 1942.

Today, visitors can enjoy plays, movie screenings, and musical performances in a state-of-the-art theatre. Concert-goers sit in comfortable, new seats listening to excellent acoustics. Stay tuned! The premier fine arts center will undergo an expansion of its square footage next door in the coming year.

The Opera House is also known for hosting children’s programs as well as art and music classes for all ages. The Junction City Little Theater performs four productions every year. The community band performs on Memorial Day and showcases free shows every Sunday in June.

It’s a stunning building to see in person. I was impressed by its design and the interior details from the custom-made chandeliers to the hand-painted murals. The upstairs lobby also serves as an art gallery featuring regional artists’ work. To see it yourself and view an upcoming event, which often includes comedians, concerts, and plays, visit this link.

MILFORD NATURE CENTER AND FISH HATCHERY

Located a 10-minute drive outside of town and near the Milford Dam and Reservoir, the Milford Nature Center and Fish Hatchery (3415 Hatchery Dr.). It is not to be missed for its live animals, dioramas, and outdoor exhibits. The best part? It’s free and open to the public 9 am-4:30 pm Monday-Friday, 1-5 pm on the weekend.

Free to explore inside and out, the nature center includes displays visitors of all ages can enjoy. I particularly loved the live animal exhibits where I observed reptiles, fish, prairie dogs, a bobcat, and birds of prey.

Do you recognize Kansas’ state reptile, the box turtle?

Nearly all of the animals that live at the nature center are brought to the facility with health concerns, including eagles and falcons that live in outdoor enclosures. In fact, they receive 400-600 animals each year for rehabilitation.

You’ll appreciate the QR-coded informational displays that provide in-depth details about each animal. Kids will love the tactile station to learn more about animal fur and skeletons.

The Butterfly House, open June-October, is entertaining to walk through. A nearby fish hatchery was closed for treatment during my visit, but it is usually open to the public 9 am-4:30 pm Monday-Friday and 1-5 pm Saturday.

Adjacent to Nature Center, families will be amazed by the playground area and bird watching station. I recommend making time to walk the Tallgrass Trail to get a glimpse of the pond and learn about native plants and trees.

Check the center’s Facebook page for events prior to planning a visit. Third Thursdays give animal lovers a chance to go behind the scenes and get in-depth lessons on animal behavior.

MILFORD LAKE & DAM

The Republican River is the primary water source for Milford Lake (22 W 6th St.), which is considered the largest lake in the state and the “Fishing Capital of Kansas.” A recreational hub for everything from fishing to boating and hunting and camping, the lake is a scenic place to relax and unwind.

It’s a beautiful, scenic place to escape the hustle of everyday life. With over 19,000 acres of land, it’s common to spot wildlife making it a landscape photographer’s dream location. Additionally, the area offers entertainment options for the family. Milford State Park (Northwest of Junction City, west of K-77 on K-57) hosts fishing tournaments, Family Movie Night, S’mores Family Fun Run, and more.

RATHERT STADIUM

One of my favorite attractions in any Kansas town is historical architecture and Junction City has plenty of it. Rathert Stadium (900 W. 13th St.) was built in 1937 and still hosts baseball games today. Sports fans sit in wooden seats to watch the Junction City Brigade, Blue Jays, and American Legion Flames compete on the field.

DINING

STACY’S RESTAURANT

I like to dine where the locals start their day. Stacy’s Restaurant (118 W Flint Hills Blvd.) is a quaint diner where Fort Riley soldiers, families, and travelers passing through come to enjoy a hearty breakfast and lunch.

Just as I expected, the menu listed pancakes, egg scrambles, french toast, and sandwiches. I ordered a homemade cinnamon roll that came to the table with ooey-gooey vanilla frosting dripping from all sides. When in Junction City, pull over to dine at Stacy’s. The prices are reasonable and the portions are huge.

HOT ROD’Z

Ron, the “Pit Master,” at Hot Rod’z (1118 N. Washington St.) knows how to smoke meat. The Hot Rod signature sandwich comes with pulled pork, a hotlink, sauce, and cheese piled high on a bun. Oh, but that’s not it! The plate comes with two succulent ribs, creamy coleslaw, chips, and pickles.

Did I eat it all? I wanted to, but that’s a lot of grub. It was so good, I asked for a to-go box. To my surprise, every meal comes with a “hillbilly fortune cookie” aka oatmeal cream pie. It was over the top DELICIOUS!

Located just behind the historic downtown area, Hot Rod’z is a real deal bbq joint. Ron is always ready to chat about his recipes (he told me the coleslaw recipe!), and talk about his collection of antiques. Stay a while, enjoy the bbq, and get to know him. Good people, better bbq.

BELLA’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT

When you’re craving savory pasta dishes, the place to dine is Bella’s Italian Restaurant (605 N Washington St.) in historic downtown. The friendly staff greets you warmly and ushers you to a table surrounded by the colors of Tuscany. The two-sided menu includes entrees like Veal Cacciatore, Shrimp Alfredo, and Chicken Parmigiana.

I asked the server what the most popular pasta dish on the menu was and he encouraged me to order the Cheese Ravioli. Topped with tangy marinara sauce and mozzarella cheese, it was baked to perfection. I was happy with my selection that paired nicely with the house red wine. The creamy Italian dressing was the ideal choice for the house salad. View the menu in advance of your visit here.

I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to Junction City. As someone who appreciates Kansas history and exploring the outdoors, I was glad I took Exit 295 from Kansas I-70 and checked it out. I’m just sad I didn’t have more time to discover more of the area’s attractions like Milford Wetlands, Geary Lake Falls, The Starcke House, or Spring Valley Historical Site.

The next time I visit the town, I hope to stay at Acorns Resort, an area near the lake that includes cabins and a swimming pool.

Have you traveled to the Hometown of Fort Riley? Sought adventure in Geary County? Tell me about your experiences in the comments below.

Small Town, Big Fun: Stops You Should Make in Hays, Kansas

August 15, 2021 by Vanessa Whiteside 1 Comment

Disclosure: Kansas I-70 Association sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

A one-time wild frontier town known for its colorful history and Volga German heritage, Hays, Kansas, offers today’s visitors a glimpse into the past and modern experiences for travelers passing along KS I-70. You’re guaranteed to enjoy your stay in Hays.

I discovered that there is more than enough to do. I squeezed a lot in my itinerary during an overnight stay. You may just want to spend an entire weekend touring the small town’s attractions, dining options, and historic landmarks.

Hays Mural — Mural at the Fox (1202 Main St.) is a 35’x60′ mural by local artist Dennis Schiel.

HISTORY

Founded in 1867, the railroad town was put on the map by the Union Pacific Railway Eastern Division and was named after Historic Fort Hays. The military post provided refuge for settlers and railroad workers to escape Indian resistance. The town attracted workers but as well as colorful characters who enjoyed saloons, brothels, dance halls, and gambling houses.

A couple of years later, James Butler Hickok, a skilled marksman, became sheriff of Hays. He killed men in shootouts to end the lawlessness in town. But Hickock was sheriff for only three short months. The citizens didn’t appreciate his style of law, and another sheriff was chosen. In 1876, he was shot in the back of the head and killed while sitting in a South Dakota saloon playing cards by a young gunslinger, Jack McCall.

I loved walking around downtown Hays and imagining it as a lawless town. Many of the original buildings have been restored. The photo below shows the historic George Philip Hardware building, established in 1894, at 719 Main Street. Over the years, the structure has been a general store, public land office, and the Hays Free Press. The limestone building now houses a dress boutique shop.

The Wiesner’s Department Store building is now the Be Made Mercantile in The Bricks of Downtown Hays area. A mix of specialty shops, offices, and restaurants now occupy many of the historic buildings brought back to their beautiful beginnings with thoughtful restoration. The downtown corridor is a treasure. It was named “Most Beautiful Main Street in Kansas” by MSN.

LODGING

HILTON GARDEN INN AND CONVENTION CENTER

The Hilton Garden Inn and Convention Center‘s (221 W. 43rd St.) modern style and unexpected luxury surprised me, considering its reasonable rate. It’s consistently ranked high on hotel rating websites. While I’m sure, there are several respectable hotels to stay at when in Hays, I highly recommend booking your overnight accommodations here.

The 100-room hotel features a restaurant and bar, indoor pool, fitness room, and free parking. I was shocked at the size of my room. It was larger than some of my college apartments. I had ample space to spread out my work gear and plug in all my gadgets. The TV provided streaming channel options. I suggest you bring your Netflix and YouTube credentials to make logging into your platforms a breeze. You’ll also appreciate the in-room coffeemaker and tea station.

Hilton Garden Inn is one of those hotels where you look back at the sign as you leave and think, “I want to stay here again.” It’s modern, spacious, clean, and has many awesome amenities. A pet-friendly hotel, I feel good knowing that the next time I visit, I can bring my four-legged family member with me during my return trip to Hays.

HAYS ATTRACTIONS

STERNBERG MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY

In Hays, you must visit Fort Hays State University’s Sternberg Museum of Natural History (3000 Sternberg Drive). I can tell you first-hand that it’s no ordinary attraction. The collections are impressive in size and quality. They focus on evolutionary science with an emphasis on the Great Plains. Fossils, rocks and minerals, dinosaur bones, and more make touring the exhibits a treat for visitors of all ages. As a native Kansan, I loved that many of the collections’ artifacts were found in the Sunflower State.

The geology specimens will rock your world. You’ll love looking through and into glass-encased exhibits at colorful rocks, minerals, and crystals. The exhibits help you better understand three distinct geologic eras. Their beauty and historical significance wowed me. Perhaps you’ve seen geodes and rocks before but never the size and color of the ones on exhibit at Sternberg.

The museum’s paleontology area allows visitors to get an up-close view of animatronic dinosaurs, prehistoric animals, sea swimming creatures, and fish that lived in Kansas over 80 million years ago. It was a different world when the seas flooded North America. The museum’s exhibits give visitors a glimpse into the past.

As an adult, I appreciated the “A Look Inside” collection of x-rays of animals. Scientists use the images to look at the skeletons of animal specimens that lived millions of years ago. Before leaving this area of the museum, make sure you observe the freshwater creatures swimming in aquariums. The live tortoise exhibit is also worthy of a look. Did you know a tortoise’s leg is similar to an elephant’s? Fun facts like these are on display throughout the center.

Kids will love the Discovery Room for its hands-on activities. The space also has rows of enclosed aquariums featuring live snakes, frogs, and spiders. In another area of the museum, the Fossil Dig Site gives children the chance to unearth dinosaur “bones.”

A major draw of the museum is its collection of fossils found in the Great Plains, which largely exists because of the work of Charles H. Sternberg. He collected fossils in Kansas starting in 1867. Today, his family’s fossil collection includes more than 400,000 vertebrate and invertebrate specimens. You can also tour rooms stocked with plant fossils. Sternberg amassed many world-famous fossils like the Tylosaurus marine lizard pictured below.

An extraordinary place, the museum has won the Best of the Best Official People’s Choice Award as a local tourism attraction. It truly is worth a visit.

ELLIS COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM

Another major attraction for visitors to Hays is the Ellis County Historical Museum (111 East 30th St.). Actually, it’s more of a campus rather than a single museum. You can request a tour of the Volga German Haus and Fire Museum on location. The limestone and brick churches are no longer open to the public; however, you can still view their detailed architecture.

What do you consider when admiring the architecture of another time? I think it tells a story. Many of the buildings in Hays were constructed with limestone, a prevalent material in the area. The residents worked hard to erect the buildings that stand today.

HISTORIC CHURCHES OF ELLIS COUNTY

To understand Hays as a community, it’s necessary to get to know its German heritage. The settlers who chose Ellis County as their home brought with them Roman Catholic influences. The ten churches in Hays and the surrounding area are exceptionally tall with Gothic-style architectural details. If you’re interested in taking a self-guided Historic Churches Tour, you can download the brochure here or contact the Hays Welcome Center for details.

I made a stop outside of Hays in Victoria, Kansas to gaze upon “The Cathedral of the Plains” aka The Basilica of St. Fidelis (900 Cathedral Ave.) It is so massive that you can see it in the distance when driving on KS I-70. The Roman Catholic church is built in the shape of a cross and its entrance faces west. Adorned with two towers that reach 141′ tall, it seats over a thousand people making it the largest church west of the Mississippi. It’s also considered one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas. I was awe-inspired by its majestic beauty.

KSU AGRICULTURAL RESEARCH CENTER

I never thought I’d learn so much about Kansas farming and ranching until touring the KSU Agricultural Research Center (1232 240th Ave.). It gave me a humbled appreciation and better understanding of the work that goes into producing a successful harvest or cattle herd.

Greeted by a welcoming employee, he volunteered to take me on a private tour of the grounds. He told me about the work Kansas State University is doing there. It’s more than a farm – it’s a science lab. I learned that their lab research makes improving and innovating traditional farming methods possible.

Because of their lab testing and research, rural farmers know how to improve their methods resulting in a better harvest or herd. From cattle nutrition to land management and plant pathology to entomology, the folks at the center work year-round to learn from nature. In fact, it was at the KSU Agricultural Research Center that many of the biggest contributions to the science of farming took place. Using ultrasound information at the center helped scientists learn more about beef marbling, which led to the USDA’s grading system for quality.

You don’t have to be a farmer to appreciate the work the KSU team is doing. Even as a novice gardener, I walked away, having learned more about working the land and how it benefits us all. You’ll find the tour fascinating. You don’t have to schedule a tour and can stop by anytime during their office hours.

PETE FELTEN SCULPTURES TOUR

A sucker for public art, I’m always game to go on a treasure hunt for pieces I’ve never seen. Find a Felten is a self-guided tour of 16 limestone sculptures created by Hays artist, Pete Felten. Each one helps to tell the story of the Kansas town.

I appreciated the wonder of each piece – and to think that Felten is a self-taught sculptor! His first commissioned piece of Buffalo Bill Cody is on display front and center at the Hays Public Library. From small in size to 24-ton creations, Felten has shaped stone to represent the best of Hays’ history like the Hereford Bull pictured above. To see 16 Felten sculptures, you’ll need to drive to the locations not located in the downtown district. Use this brochure to plan your adventure!

BOOT HILL CEMETERY

The 1885 site, Boot Hill Cemetary, is where outlaws “died with their boots on.” It sits at Fort and 18th Street in what is now a suburban neighborhood of Hays. The site is located on a hill that serves as the final resting place where many were buried during the days of Wild Bill Hickock. “The Homesteader,” another Felten sculpture marks the location.

I found it easy to park nearby the cemetery and take a short walk to the monument. It’s yet another way to understand the lawlessness and corruption that once ruled Hays. It’s reported that 79 outlaws were buried there. Will you visit the burial ground?

HISTORIC WALKING TOUR

Continuing my journey through Hay’s past, I opted to take a self-guided walking tour of the infamous buildings that made up old Hays City. The area of town, referred to as Chestnut Street District includes 25 buildings with bronze plaques that explain each one’s significance.

For me, there is something about standing outside the door of what once was Tommy Drum’s Saloon and Paddy Walsh’s Gambling Hall that sends my imagination into overdrive. How many gunslingers were killed there? What did the music sound like from the saloons? And now I’m standing where they stood.

THE BRICKS DOWNTOWN HAYS

Strolling along picturesque downtown Hays is a pleasure. The Bricks in Downtown Hays is a walkable district with breweries, bakeries, boutiques, and entertainment venues. Honestly, there really is something for all ages to enjoy. I’d recommend checking for upcoming events on the Facebook page before planning an outing.

DINING

BREATHE COFFEE HOUSE

I found Breathe Coffee House (703 B Main St.) to be the perfect way to start my morning in downtown Hays. They serve “oddly correct coffee,” crepes, smoothies, and scones. The cafe’s mission is to serve as a place for people to connect, to feel cared for by others, and to welcome people of all faiths and backgrounds.

As I sipped on my latté made from Kansas City roaster, Oddly Correct, I noticed that an entire wall was covered in shelves housing mugs. To join the Coffee Club, the cafe devotees pay $25 that serves as a donation to fund outreach projects. The cafe is a non-profit that supports Dialogue Ministries.

Warm and welcoming, the cafe is a cozy place to enjoy a cup of coffee.

PAISLEY PEAR WINE BAR, BISTRO and MARKET

Another delightful space to relax and unwind after a day of exploring downtown Hays is Paisley Pear Wine Bar, Bistro and Market (1100 Main St). Established in 2017, the wine bar has been serving beverage flights and wine slushies since 2017. During my visit, I chose a $12 wine flight of dry varieties from a long list of options. My favorite selection was a cabernet sauvignon from Skyfall Vineyards. Thankfully, my server was kind enough to provide me samples of cheese from Alma Creamery, which paired well with all of my choices.

I took my time sipping and enjoying the selections as I watched women arrive to attend a baby shower in a separate event space in the back of the building. Smaller groups gathered at tables in the tasting room to drink wine and catch up on the latest happenings.

Paisley Pear occupies a 100-year-old building that was JB Basgall Grocery. Check out the photo below. You can see the original floors! If you stop in for one of their popular wine slushies, a wine flight, or a cocktail (they have a full bar!), take a few moments to get up and walk around the space. You’ll love their retail inventory of Kansas-made products.

GELLA’S DINER + Lb BREWING CO.

I had heard about Gella’s Diner + Lb Brewing Co. (117 E. 11 St.) before arriving in Hays. They are well-known in town for their excellent pub grub and craft beer. My dining experience lived up to the hype. Gella’s was worth the stop.

I chose a seat at the bar so I could have a clear view of the brewers at work behind the glass wall. My bartender was friendly and happy to provide a few beer samples until I eventually decided on a pint of the unfiltered Grapefruit Radler. Undecided between two lunch options, she persuaded me to order a local’s favorite, a Smothered Bierock covered in creamy cheese sauce with homemade chips. She also ensured my meal came with creamy bacon horseradish and sweet onion dip to eat with the chips. Lunch never tasted so good! And the beer? It was crisp and aromatic. I’d order it again. Maybe a growler of it.

Knowing that I didn’t have room left for dessert, I ordered the French Toast Brulèe anyway. The crisp exterior gave way to a pillowy center as my spoon cracked into it. Combined with vanilla bean ice cream and fresh whipped cream, it was beyond delicious.

I recommend stopping at Gella’s for lunch or dinner whenever you’re in Hays. The restaurant is large enough that it can easily accommodate groups. Menu prices were reasonable for the quality and portion sizes. If you drink craft beer, you can expect 12 taps, with two rotating regularly.

TRIO TAP HOUSE

The dinner bell was ringing, and I was hungry. Trio Tap House (1106 E. 26th) claims they are a place to enjoy “an honest meal and a proper good time,” and they weren’t kidding. I nestled into my seat and reviewed the menu. I was craving a hearty salad. The Dry Aged Steak & Blue checked all the boxes. It had fresh romaine lettuce, creamy blue cheese crumbles, red onion, and a steak cooked to medium rare.

To wash it down, I chose Breckenridge Brewing Company’s Peach Palisade Wheat. One bonus to stopping into a brewery in western Kansas? You’re bound to find several Colorado beers on tap.

DEFIANCE BREWING COMPANY (DOWNTOWN)

A new downtown brewpub, Defiance Brewing Co. recently opened its second location (111 W. 7th St.). I’ve been a fan of their beer for a couple of years, so I stocked up my cooler before heading for home. My lunch, a large house salad with champagne vinaigrette, hit the spot as I was in need of something fresh and light. Radio hits from my college years blasted in the background and I whispered the lyrics between bites.

If you’re a craft beer fan, I suggest visiting their downtown location. They offer 12 beer selections and a quarter of the menu are IPAs. Rumor has it they are aging beer in barrels in the side room. Craving lunch or dinner? Ask for a menu that features wood-fired pizzas, sandwiches, and salads.

My time in Hays may have been short-lived, but it wasn’t without delightful moments. You will feel the same as you dive deep into the town’s history, enjoy a meal in good company, and appreciate all that the downtown district has to offer. In fact, you may just need to extend your hotel stay another night to make sure you have a bonus day to enjoy Hays. It’s a thriving small town that offers big fun.

Go West! Exploring Russell, Kansas and the Surrounding Area

August 9, 2021 by Vanessa Whiteside 6 Comments

Disclosure: Kansas I-70 Association sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

When Kansas I-70 Association asked me if I wanted to take to the road to tell the story of Western Kansas, I was all in. They wanted me to explore multiple rural towns. My only question was “When do I leave?” My first assignment was to gas up the car and head to Russell County and capture the people and places that make it a bucket list destination.

WILSON

My first stop on the Kansas I-70 road trip took a slight detour, but I had to check it out. The town of Wilson has the World’s Largest Czech Egg located at the Ed & LaVange Shiroky Park. Standing 20′ tall x 15′ wide, it was hand-painted by 50+ local volunteers with more than 2,000+ hours. The massive egg, designed by local Czech egg artist, Christina Slechta, is covered with symbolic images.

Wilson is considered the Czech Capital of Kansas and the annual After Harvest Czech Festival brings thousands to the area to celebrate the heritage of families who settled in the area.

POST ROCK SCENIC BYWAY

A short drive on KS-232 from town, the Post Rock Scenic Byway drive routes you to Wilson Lake just south of Lucas, Kansas. The 18-mile byway is named after the limestone fence posts that pioneers used in the late 1800s when wood wasn’t available. Kansas limestone was sourced from what was an old seabed.

For all of the people who say Kansas is “flat,” they’ve never taken this drive to enjoy the rolling hills and endless views. Watch as the limestone fence posts rush past the car along your route. Like me, you might find yourself pulling the car over numerous times just to get a better view. Kansas pulls out all the stops. I can only imagine how beautiful the night sky looks when stargazing in the area.

WILSON LAKE

If you love to fish, boat, or simply relax on the beach, there’s no better place to do it than Wilson Lake. It’s the clearest lake in Kansas! Once you stand above it from the overlook or on part of 100 miles of shoreline, you’re amazed by its beauty.

It was my first visit to the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers lake and honestly, I was impressed. This is not a fishing hole or a brown water Kansas lake. It’s gorgeous! You can camp, fish, kick back on sandy swimming beaches, windsurf, and more if you visit the area. You might even spot sailplane racing. Oh, and do you love to fish? Wilson Lake is considered an angler’s paradise. One of 24 reservoirs in Kansas, it is revered for its bass, crappie, catfish, and walleye fishing. It was ranked #86 of the Top 100 Lakes Nationwide by Bass Masters Magazine.

Wilson Lake Dam

The geologic formations and rolling rolls make the drive in this area of Russell County spectacular. Kansas is NOT flat. In fact, many mountain bikers like to twist and jump along the Switchgrass Bike Trail that winds 7.5 miles over the hills. Not much for adrenaline sports? Wilson Lake is also a geocache location for those who want to find a hidden treasure.

Have you explored Wilson Lake yet? Hop in the car and head west on KS I-70 to experience it first-hand. Don’t forget to pack your fishing poles and swim gear.

Wilson Lake Trail

LUCAS

People have said that I needed to visit Lucas for years. I kept putting it off, which was a mistake because it is a Kansas town that offers once in a lifetime experience. It has the distinction of being home to three of the 8 Wonders of Kansas sites. The reason its reputation proceeds it? It’s probably the most eccentric, artistic town in the Sunflower State. I had never seen anything like it and nor will you. Over 15,000 visitors add Lucas to their road trip must-visit list each year.

I continued on Hwy 232 from Wilson Lake to Lucas, the “Grassroots Art Capital of Kansas.” I spied yard art, ceramic plates on lights poles, and a lion sculpture within five minutes of my arrival. WHOA. I parked the car on Main Street and saw a woman wearing an oversized straw hat sitting on scaffolding with a brush in hand painting a mural. I introduced myself and learned that she was commissioned by Lucas Pride Program to revive the faded mural, a project that was nearly complete. She happily welcomed me to town.

With the Bowl Plaza in my sights, I made my way to a bright white building covered in mosaics shaped like a toilet bowl. Like everything in Lucas, local artists decided to “bling” the building that was built as the town’s public restroom. To say that it is an unforgettable experience is an understatement. The building resembles a toilet tank, the benches are the seat, the entrance is the lid, and the sidewalk mimic the curved of toilet paper. I don’t want to spoil the rest for you. Plan a pitstop in Lucas so you can see the entirety of Bowl Plaza for yourself.

More artistic talent is on view at the Grassroots Art Center, a building that showcases the whimsical work of over 25 self-taught artists. Most of the rotating exhibitions were created by artists later in life or during their retirement. None of them held back on using their creativity to wow onlookers.

In my opinion, the most mind-blowing display of creativity was a sculpture by John Woods. He paid homeless people to dredge MacArthur Park Lake to collect the art supplies he needed for the sculpture, “Westlake Park.” Every inch of the sculpture is covered in lost lake items ranging from watches to toys and necklaces to marbles. Another artist, Gary Pendergrass, who hails from Wichita layered and stacked objects to create a ship with a steampunk theme.

Many of the artists’ works show their appreciation for recycling objects to find new uses for them. I suggest you step inside the building’s old bank vault to see the work of Overland Park artist, James Peruca. He used recycled objects to create art that surrounds the viewer. What do you recognize in the photo below?

Admission to the Grassroots Art Center doesn’t necessarily include a guided tour but the helpful employee that works there is more than happy to provide background information about the artwork on display. If you spy a piece that you’d love to take home with you, there is a good chance it’s for sale.

The Garden of Eden and Cabin is a major draw for tourists to Lucas. Samuel Perry Dinsmoor, a retired school teacher and Civil War veteran, built the 11-cabin in 1907 to attract tourists. He constructed it from 113 tons of cement over 22 years. His family gave tours of the cabin and the Garden of Eden to make money.

Today, his body can be seen under glass in the mausoleum he built on the property. His first wife is buried underneath him in a concrete vault. He married his second wife, who was 20 years old when he married her at age 81. It was all part of his idea for creating a tourist attraction. Strange? Odd? Fascinating? It’s all of the above and more. It still draws a crowd.

I was fascinated by Dinsmoor’s use of wire and cement to build massive structures that told a story. The photo below shows his interpretation of bringing down civilization. The Goddess of Liberty has one foot on the trusts. The man and woman are sawing off the “chartered rights limb,” which represents Dinsmoor’s thoughts on big business overtaking an individual’s rights.

I sarcastically mumbled to myself during the tour of his property, “Because, why not? That seems perfectly normal.” For its wow factor, I recommend visiting the Garden of Eden, located 16 miles north of KS I-70. Admission includes a self-guided sculpture tour, however, the employee on-site eagerly took me and a visiting family around the property. Don’t miss Miller’s Park just to the east of the property. Roy and Clara Miller designed the rock formations as a rest stop attraction and recreation area along Kansas Highway 18, which have been moved to a permanent location next to the Garden of Eden.

Other destinations worth visiting in Lucas include Brant’s Market, Lucas Area Community Theater, Possumbilities, World’s Largest Collection of the World’s Smallest Things, and Florence Deeble’s Rock Garden. Don’t be surprised if you feel inspired to create your own artwork after touring the whimsical town.

RUSSELL

With more fun in store, I left Lucas and drove 40 minutes to Russell, the childhood home of retired United States Senator and military hero Bob Dole. The agriculture and petroleum-producing town has a lot to offer visitors. As I made my way around town, I discovered well-preserved main street buildings, manicured parks, and an undercurrent of hometown pride depicting in its murals, veterans park, and historic landmarks.

Before checking into my lodging accommodations at Fossil Creek Hotel & Suites, I drove downtown to grab a bite to eat at the town’s newest business, The Bar. It is owned by an attorney, hence the name. Open less than a year, locals and visitors are drawn to its modern interior and sophisticated menu. I was taken aback by the expansive wall of antique law books that served as the backdrop to a row of leather booths. Board games, a life-sized Connect 4 game, and a shuffleboard table took up space in the back of the room. The Bar has a row of supersized TVs guaranteeing a good view no matter where you sit.

I chose the lunch special (pick 2 items for $8 or 3 items for $10) and a cold pint of beer from one of 20 on tap. The impressive lunch plate came with a hummus and muffuletta panini sandwich, apple walnut salad, and a heaping side of addictive truffle fries. The ingredients were fresh and delicious – just the kind of meal I’d been craving on the road. If you’re headed to Russell for an event, I was told to keep in mind that The Bar gets busy. Get there early!

After lunch, I dug in my heels and started checking out the town. The murals of Russell are eye-catching. When traveling along KS I-70, pull over into this quaint town to see them up close.

The home of U.S. Senator Bob Dole, the area honors veterans, agricultural, oil refining, and their residents with beautiful street art. Other attractions worth seeking out include Bob Dole’s childhood home, downtown shops, and Memorial Park for its golf course, swimming pool, and veterans memorial.

Driving through town, I saw buildings made with the region’s most readily available material, limestone. The churches, schools, and early homes in Russell were constructed with stunning sedimentary rock. Visitors can pay to tour some of them like the Heym-Oliver House, built in 1878 by Nicholas Heym on land he purchased for $50. HeadS up! Be sure to check their hours before you visit. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to step inside it because it was a Monday and they were closed.

With a bit of exploring under my belt, I drove to Waudby’s Sports Bar & Grill for a basket of their popular chicken wings. The Vicotria-era building is listed on the national register. When oil workers needed recreation, the building was made into a pool hall in 1923. A family-friendly restaurant, the backroom has arcade games that beg for kids to play them and a pool table for adults in the bar area.

Not far from my hotel, I checked in and found the hotel and amenities comfortable. Fossil Creek Inn & Suites offers busy travelers an affordable stay with a long list of amenities including a swimming pool, whirlpool, and complimentary continental breakfast.

Near the hotel, Meridy’s Restaurant and Lounge was within walking distance. The hotel receptionist recommended I visit the buffet while another local suggested I go for broke and order a steak. I sat amongst couples meeting with their friends and dining on downhome comfort meals. Conversations revolved around local gossip, the summer heat, and farming woes. Everyone knew everyone. I heard the server say, “See ya Pops!” when a regular customer paid his check and headed for home.

While tempted to order a steak (ask about their current prices), I chose Crab Stuffed Shrimp. It was decadent and delicious. Meridy’s is a local restaurant you can see from the highway as you come into town making it a prime location and solid choice for a good meal.

Russell is a town that I passed without stopping along KS I-70 from Kansas to Colorado dozens of times. My mistake! Russell and the surrounding towns offer travelers warm hospitality and sights that surprise them. Good people, interesting attractions, and a variety of dining options make Russell County a sure-win.

Have you spent a day in Russell, Lucas, or on the water at Wilson Lake? Share your thoughts in the comments below. I’d love to continue learning about the area from others.