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University of Kansas

The Road is Calling: KS I-70 East

January 4, 2022 by Vanessa Whiteside Leave a Comment

Disclosure: Kansas I-70 Association sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

There’s nothing better than a road trip.  Packing the snacks. Loading the bags into the car. The anticipation of taking to the open road.

The only thing left to do is set the car on cruise control along KS I-70 from Junction City to Kansas City, Kansas. I’ve made the planning easy. Use the links below to help you explore the best of each town along your route.

JUNCTION CITY

Junction City in Geary County deserves a closer look. Exit from KS I-70 to discover its proud military heritage, outdoor recreation, and visit-worthy attractions. A 25-minute drive from Manhattan and only an hour from Topeka, it is nestled in the beautiful Flint Hills of North Central Kansas.

Rich in military history, Heritage Park offers visitors a chance to pay their respects at numerous memorials. Junction City also attracts outdoor enthusiasts since Milford Lake is considered the largest lake in the state and the “Fishing Capital of Kansas.” Getting hungry from exploring the outdoors? Stacy’s Restaurant serves an authentic diner breakfast menu, Hot Rod’z smokes some of the best barbecue in the area, and Bella’s Italian Restaurant knows how to make customers happy with pasta entrees baked to perfection.

View a complete itinerary here.

MANHATTAN

The more time I spend in Manhattan, the more I love it. The college town, home to Kansas State University, has what seems to be an endless list of things to do ranging from outdoor recreation to indoor dining.

From Aggieville to Downtown Manhattan, there are more than enough quaint boutiques to shop and on-trend restaurants to try. Start the day at Flight Crew Coffee, dine on delectable tacos at El Toro, and enjoy a pub grub for dinner at Kite’s Draft House. Plan time to stop at Manhattan Brewing Company and Tallgrass Tap House where craft beer connoisseurs feel at home.

I recommend planning ahead for a well-spent trip to the college town. You’ll walk away with fond memories and plans to return again.

View a complete itinerary here.

TOPEKA

Topeka is a city that intrigues me. It’s a metropolis of doers, makers, and creative people. Its attractions reflect a spirit of progress. I was impressed by its eclectic arts scene, restaurant options, and historical museums. When given the chance to Exit I-70 to Topeka and stay overnight, do it. You won’t be disappointed.

If you get the opportunity to choose your accommodations for an overnight stay in Topeka, I hope you’ll choose the Cyrus Hotel. Not only does it make for a comfortable stay in the heart of the city, but the amenities spoil you.

Explore the Kansas Museum of History, Brown vs. Board of Education National Historic Site, tour the Kansas Statehouse, and shop eclectic stores in the NOTO Arts & Entertainment District. Take a break for lunch at The Pennant or choose upscale dining and cocktails at Fedeli’s Steak & Pasta Restaurant & Bar.

View a complete itinerary here.

LECOMPTON

One aspect of travel that motivates me to take to the road is to learn about an area’s history. Take Exit 197 from Kansas I-70 to Lecompton and you have arrived at the Birthplace of the Civil War and the Territorial Capital of Kansas from 1855-1861.

Located between Topeka and Lawrence, the quaint town is home to a friendly community that welcomes tourists interested in learning about its impact on American history. In addition to historical buildings and tours, travelers will appreciate the downtown area for its charming small businesses. Enjoy breakfast at Aunt Netters Cafe before exploring the area and leave time to sip wine at Empty Nester’s Winery before ending the day shopping for sausage and steaks at Kroeger Country Meats.

View a complete itinerary here.

LAWRENCE

As a University of Kansas graduate, Lawrence is like a home away from home for me. I was thrilled when I was invited to return to town to highlight the campus from a tourist’s perspective. KU has a long list of attractions that make it unique and worth checking out, from museums and eateries to sports arenas and historical landmarks.

Touring the KU campus offers visitors a chance to fall in love with its many attractions. Whether you’re a sports fan or simply love touring historical museums, I know you’ll find your experience on campus to be a positive one. For dining options, I recommend McClain’s Market for breakfast, Johnny’s Tavern North to devour scratch-made pizza by the slice, and 715 Restaurant for an unmatched upscale dining experience that will exceed your expectations.

View a complete itinerary here.

BONNER SPRINGS

Have you ever driven into a town for the first time and instantly fallen in love with it? Bonner Springs won me over for its small-town charm and big-city attractions. Located off of KS I-70 Exit 224, the community promises visitors a warm welcome and a multitude of things to do.

The tucked-away town near Kansas City offers visitors incredible downtown shopping. Coffee shops are often a place for the community to gather and enjoy an espresso and Third Space Coffee fits the bill. Other attractions like Moon Marble Company, The Fuel House, and Quentin’s BBQ guarantee a good time. Treat yourself to an ice cream float at Old Mill Ice Cream Shop or end the evening with a cocktail at Ten & Two Coffee Bar.

View a complete itinerary here.

SHAWNEE

I don’t know anyone who wouldn’t love Shawnee. No matter what you’re looking for in a city, they’ve got it. Voted one of the “Best Small Cities in America,” you definitely want to experience it. My travel itinerary was long, but I was determined to hit as many places on it as I could. Shopping downtown? Check. A tour of a historic theatre? Check. Drinking wine in a castle? Don’t mind if I do.

The city touts the phrase “good starts here,” and now I understand why. From its incredible attractions to exquisite dining options, it is worthy of an overnight visit when in the Kansas City area. The award-winning town deserves the accolades it gets.

View the itinerary here.

LEAVENWORTH

Leavenworth is the ideal choice for an overnight stay to explore the state’s history and appreciate modern attractions. From breakfast time until long after the sun goes down, the northeastern Kansas town has more than enough entertaining things to do including shopping, dining, and strolling the historic district.

Located between Fort Leavenworth and Kansas City, the location was the first city of Kansas established in 1854. History runs deep in this part of the state. You’ll appreciate its historic homes, dynamic eateries (enjoy pasta at Luigi’s 418), and a vibrant downtown shopping scene. The buildings’ architecture is stunning.

View a complete itinerary here.

KANSAS CITY

Kansas City, Kansas is a go-to destination for culturally diverse attractions, big-city shopping, and restaurants worthy of the all-star status. Go-to attractions range from big-city shopping at Legends Outlets and Cabela’s to destinations like Hollywood Casino and Rowe Ridge Winery & Vineyard. For mural hunters who love art, a tour of the Downtown Avenue of Murals on Minnesota Avenue is not to be missed.

I dined on crave-worthy Mexican food at El Toro Loco, which is known for street tacos and homemade margaritas. If there is one thing Kansas City does best, it’s barbecue. Take your place in line at Slap’s BBQ in the Strawberry Hill neighborhood.

View a complete itinerary here.

What a road trip, right? Every stop along Kansas I-70 from Junction City to Kansas has something for every traveler. Thinking of heading west instead? I’ve also got you covered! Take a spontaneous road trip to one of eight towns highlighted in an earlier blog post here.

Filed Under: Kansas, Travel Tagged With: Ad Astra, barbecue, bbq, Bonner Springs, dining, Fort Riley, I-70, interstate, Junction City, Kansas, Kansas City, Lawrence, Leavenworth, Lecompton, Manhattan, Midwest, military, murals, museums, road trip, Shawnee, shopping, Sunflower State, tacos, Topeka, University of Kansas

Rock Chalk Jayhawk: University of Kansas Campus Tour

November 29, 2021 by Vanessa Whiteside Leave a Comment

Disclosure: Kansas I-70 Association sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

As a University of Kansas graduate, Lawrence is like a home away from home for me. I was thrilled when I was invited to return to town to highlight the campus from a tourist’s perspective. KU has a long list of attractions that make it unique and worth checking out, from museums and eateries to sports arenas and historical landmarks.

Watch an introductory Instagram video on my morning on campus here.
You can walk the courtyard in front of the Memorial Union to see the evolution of KU’s mascot, the Jayhawk.

LODGING

I always wanted to stay overnight at The Oread (1200 Oread Ave.), a hotel located on the northern edge of the KU campus known for its casual elegance. The Oread towers over campus with views of the Campanile bell tower and Memorial Stadium and sits within walking distance of campus attractions, downtown shopping, and dining on Massachusetts Street.

Made of Kansas limestone, the stunning hotel is where families stay when in town visiting students. KU alumni create memories on their wedding day at The Oread. It’s the premier hotel on the hill that Lawrence visitors should experience at least once.

Named after Mount Oread, the name of the hill that the KU campus sits on, the hotel includes Bird Dog Bar, The Nest on Ninth, Cave, and 1965 Uniquely KU (a place to stock up on collegiate apparel), and a fitness center.

I visited the Bird Dog Bar during Happy Hour to enjoy a specialty cocktail. I ordered an Oread 75 made with prosecco, gin, Aperol, bitters, and orange juice. For hotel guests who don’t want to head out for a dinner, they also have a full restaurant menu with weekly specials.

The fourth-floor views from my King Terrace room were breathtaking. The expansive, private patio stretched along two sides of the corner room allowing enough room for a small group to gather. It was an incredible space. I imagined hosting friends or family on the terrace before heading to the football game.

The room amenities were equally as nice. The spacious room (400 sq ft) and walk-in shower were delightful. The fresh flowers and a personalized note welcoming me to the hotel were finishing touches that set The Oread apart from other hotels.

With a full day of exploration in store, I left The Oread and walked to the west side of campus in search of a bite to eat for breakfast. (Tip: When setting out to discover the perks of campus life, leave your car parked inside The Oread’s garage. Wear a pair of walking shoes and enjoy the surroundings.)

MCLAIN’S MARKET

McLain’s Market (1420 Crescent Rd) is a bakery and coffee shop known as the go-to spot on campus for breakfast and lunch. Once the site of the Jayhawk Bookstore, the restaurant serves a steady flow of students, faculty, and visitors.

The menu features pastries, breakfast burritos and bowls, as well as snacks prepared fresh from an exposed kitchen space. I arrived between an influx of students so there wasn’t a line. With my order placed, I nestled into a comfy spot indoors with a view of the patio and passing students.

I was surrounded by students chatting with one another about homework demands, conversations about microbiology, and students turning textbook pages. Faces stared at laptops using free Wi-Fi between breakfast bites. A steady stream of students came and went from the upstairs study lounge.

My Market Bowl was a healthy mix of scrambled eggs, shoestring potatoes, and sauteé vegetables. Topped with bacon and cheese, it hit the spot. If only I was still hungry, I would’ve ordered a cookie from the bakery counter. Next visit!

THE DEBRUCE CENTER

A 10-minute walk from McClain’s Market down the hill, The DeBruce Center (1647 Naismith Drive) welcomes visitors looking to celebrate KU’s rich basketball tradition. Part historical museum, partly a gathering place for students, the facility houses James Naismith’s Rules of Basketball. Two pages of handwritten text by Naismith in 1891 rest in an illuminated case. If you push the button on the wall, you will hear his voice tell the story of creating the game.

Watch an Instagram video tour from my self-guided tour of the KU Rules of Basketball here.

Free to explore, The DeBruce Center is a must-stop for basketball fans. I also encourage you to view the Rules Concourse made of glass panels that showcase the early beginnings of KU basketball. Don’t miss the Father of Basketball Coaching Dr. Forrest C. “Phog” Allen’s story wall.

A long-time fan, I appreciated reading quotes from coaches and players displayed on the walls. Another exhibit worth viewing is “Game Changers,” which highlights the story of the game and the people who impacted its trajectory over time.

Naismith founded the school’s basketball program after his arrival at KU in 1898. You can find a commemorative statue in front of The DeBruce Center honoring the man who invented the game.

Why is a peach basket sitting next to him? “I showed them two peach baskets I’d nailed up at each end of the gym, and I told them the idea was to throw the ball into the opposing team’s peach basket,” he said. If I were you, I’d bring my camera to take a picture sitting next to the legend’s statue.

THE BOOTH HALL OF ATHLETICS

You don’t have to go far to enter The Booth Hall of Athletics (1651 Naismith Dr) from DeBruce Center. Opened in 2006, the hall is a memorial to “KU’s great student-athletes and their devoted fans,” a place of remembrance provided by a local family. It’s the mecca for all things KU athletics and it’s open to view free of charge year-round. Guided tours require tickets.

The Booth Hall of Athletics includes the KU Athletics Hall of Fame, artifacts from games of the past, trophies, and a historical timeline of moments in collegiate sports. For me, the best artifact on site is a section of the original center court floor from Allen Fieldhouse. The encircled “K” painted on wood planks marked and scuffed representing years of hard work and dedication to the game.

I walked the campus as a student the same year Raef LaFrentz played for the KU Jayhawk’s Men’s Basketball team. Other players on-campus during those years included Paul Pierce and Eric Chenowith.

Visitors of all ages will appreciate the interactive exhibits. Compare your shoe size to past basketball players. Stretch your arms to discover your reach. Take a selfie on a mini basketball court. The Booth Hall of Athletics should be at the top of your list of things to do on campus.

Make sure to view the cases containing championship trophies and sports memorabilia ranging from athletes’ letter jackets and running shoes to playbooks and equipment.

ALLEN FIELDHOUSE

It’s one of the loudest, rowdiest basketball arenas in the country. Allen Fieldhouse (1651 Naismith Drive) rocks as students jump in excitement for the game. Some say it is the best place in American to watch college basketball. Having experienced it first-hand, I agree. The atmosphere is electric.

Be sure to attend Late Night in the Phog, an event that includes basketball game scrimmages and a chance to get to know the team and coaching staff. An annual sold-out event, it is free and open to the public on a first-come, first-seated basis.

Opened to the public in 1955, it once had a clay and dirt floor. Today, men’s and women’s basketball teams compete on the hardwood for crowds of over 16,000 spectators. Discover more about the building’s history here.

To fully understand the excitement surrounding Jayhawk basketball, you have to attend a game. However, the next best thing is touring Allen Fieldhouse named after “Phog” Allen, the program’s head coach for 39 years. To book a guided tour aka “The Jayhawk Experience” to gain access to the arena, call 785-588-4299.

LUNCH

After a morning of touring campus attractions, there was only one place to dine for lunch, Johnny’s Tavern (401 N. 2nd St.). KU students and townies have dined on pizza, wings, and sandwiches there since its opening in 1953. I prefer the North Lawrence location for its authenticity and proximity to the town’s historic train depot.

An ideal place to listen to the jukebox between watching sports on TV, Johnny’s Tavern serves some of the best pizza in Lawrence. Some claim it is the best. They’re also known for serving the coldest pint of beer in town.

I ordered a slice of Great Bambino with pepperoni and a Blue Collar Lager by Free State Brewery made specifically for the restaurant. It’s the ideal collaboration since Johnny’s Tavern has been the go-to spot for hard-working folks for generations. The wedge salad came with crispy onion rings making it unique. You can’t go wrong with anything on the menu. The busy lunchtime crowd seemed to agree.

View Johnny’s Tavern hours and get a sneak peek of the menus here. Take advantage of daily specials on food and drink. Happy Hour takes place twice a day Monday-Friday.

DOLE INSTITUTE OF POLITICS

The Robert J. Dole Institute of Politics (2350 Petefish Dr.) may not be the first place you think of visiting when in Lawrence, but it should be at the top of your list. The museum pays tribute to the Russell, Kansas native’s contributions from serving in the military to working for Kansans as a U.S. Senator.

As soon as you walk inside you are greeted by the early timeline of Dole’s life in Russell. From his early days working as a paperboy in Western Kansas to earning the Presidential Medal of Freedom for his military service, the museum’s collection includes notable artifacts. I enjoyed reading his personal quotes about his experience healing from war wounds and how it shaped his perspective on life.

To read more about Dole’s hometown, Russell, visit a previous blog post I wrote about it. It also showcases a photo of his childhood home.
The Kansas WWII Veterans Memorial Wall includes over 1,000 images of veterans who bravely served. Now, you can also view a video wall that includes digital images and stories of veterans in the same space.

The museum also features the largest stained-glass American flag flanked by two pieces of the World Trade Center taken from 9/11 debris. I was awestruck and silenced. In that moment, I felt a real sense of patriotism.

The Robert J. Dole Institute of Politics promotes political and civic participation while honoring the legacy of U.S. Senators Bob and Elizabeth Dole. The center often hosts renowned speakers through bipartisan programs that are free and open to the public.

You’ll also appreciate learning that the entire basement is the Dole Archive and Special Collections, a space you can tour for a behind-the-scenes glimpse at the daily life of Bob and Elizabeth Dole in their political roles as senators. The letters written by schoolchildren to Senator Dole were incredible. In my opinion, a tour of the Dole Archive and Special Collections is an essential part of visiting the center.

These campaign buttons sit in one of the dozens of drawers like it in the basement’s Special Collections department.

I regret not visiting the museum earlier, but I’m glad I made the trip. I wrote Senator Dole a card and left it for the museum to mail to him. Unfortunately, he passed away the same day I published this blog post to social media for the first time. RIP, Senator Dole.

If you want to visit the Dole Institute of Politics located on KU’s west campus, check the hours of operation here. Free guided tours are available for visitors and groups, but only if you schedule them in advance. Admission is free.

If you’re unable to travel to the museum, you can take a virtual tour of the Elizabeth Dole Gallery & Reading Room here. Do you have an interest in politics or civic engagement? Check out the website’s events page here.

SPENCER MUSEUM OF ART

The Spencer Museum of Art (1301 Mississippi St.) on the KU campus is open Tuesday-Saturday to the public at no cost. A little grandeur never hurt anyone. If you appreciate fine art, make your way to the museum.

Not only does it serve as the home of impeccable art, but much of the building is also halls and classrooms. I should know. I studied art history as a minor concentration of study while majoring in journalism at KU years ago.

The latest exhibition “Debut” showcases never-before-seen pieces of art. During my visit, a college class was given a tour by a docent who taught them about individual pieces.

I encourage you to visit the museum to view breathtaking artwork. To view the museum’s updated hours and contact information to arrange a tour, visit their website here.

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

I’ve visited a number of museums about nature with taxidermy, but KU’s Natural History Museum (1345 Jayhawk Blvd) is probably one of the best. For a $7 suggested donation, you will gain access to four floors of phenomenal exhibits that teach visitors about the planet and specifically the Great Plains.

Be sure to look UP when you walk into the museum.

Take my advice and start on the sixth floor and work your way down. One of my favorite exhibits is the live bees and reptiles section of the museum. The Bee Tree is a live colony that you can watch at work housed in the model of a tree. The bees fly from outside into a tunnel that leads them to the hive indoors. Don’t worry. You can’t get stung! But it will surely ignite your curiosity.

Mammal skulls and taxidermy dominate much of the museum’s exhibits. Explore the glass cases to learn about the biodiversity of birds of prey and how they’ve adapted to life on the prairie. I imagine you won’t find a larger collection of waterfowl taxidermy elsewhere.

The fifth floor of the museum allows visitors to examine a Mosasaur and learn more about evolution. The fourth floor contains a massive collection of animals displayed in their natural habitat. From arctic animals to the Rocky Mountains and prairie to the rain forest, visitors are asked to think about how animals adapted and survived in each climate.

A high-quality museum, it is a place where visitors of all ages can explore nature from an indoor setting. Ask for Discover Guides at the front desk before starting your self-guided tour. They are ideal for families and each guide is tailored to a specific age group. To view the museum’s hours and plan your visit, check out their website here.

DINNER

715 Restaurant

Just as I was about to step out for dinner from the hotel, it began to rain. Since it was coming down pretty hard, I decided to drive versus walking to 715 Restaurant (715 Massachusetts St.) for dinner. I had visited the restaurant previously but only for cocktails, so I was thrilled to return to experience the European-style dinner menu.

When dining room space is limited, look for a space at the bar. Reservations are not required but you can expect the restaurant to be busy. If you want to make a reservation, you can do so easily online.

Illuminated by elegant candles and a backlit wall of green glass, the restaurant welcomes patrons in search of a relaxing yet refined setting. They also offer patio dining, a great option for Happy Hour starting at 3 pm, if the weather permits.

Chef Kelly Conwell’s ever-changing menu consists of American and Italian dishes. Some of the entreés on a recent menu included Parisian Gnocchi, Crab Ravioli, and Roasted Bone Marrow. Simplified but elevated dishes such as Steak Salad and Spaghetti & Meatballs also made an appearance.

I ordered the Charcuterie board that came with domestic and imported cured meats, olives, mustard, and crostini. Because it lacked artisan cheeses, I ordered a small plate of aged cheddar and soft cheese to accompany it. Paired with the Liquid Gold cocktail, it was delightfully appetizing. The rum-based drink was hand-crafted with pineapple, spices, apricot, and orange.

Parking along Massachusetts in front of the restaurant is metered parking and there are two-hour-free covered garages downtown as well.

Visit 715 Restaurant for an upscale dining experience that promises to exceed your expectations. Tempt your tastebuds by viewing their menus in advance of your arrival here.

Lawrence will always hold a special place in my heart. Touring the KU campus offers visitors a chance to fall in love with its many attractions. Whether you’re a sports fan or simply love touring historical museums, I know you’ll find your experience on campus to be a positive one.

Bus tickets are only $1 and rates are reduced for students and seniors. I’d recommend packing comfortable walking shoes and strolling campus instead, if possible.

If you’d like to take a historical tour of Lawrence, which includes details about the events surrounding the Civil War, visit an additional blog post I wrote here. It showcases the historic Eldridge Hotel, Watkins Museum of History, and prominent landmarks in Lawrence.

Filed Under: Kansas, Travel Tagged With: 715 Restaurant, Allen Field House, autumn, basketball, Bob Dole, Booth Hall of Athletics, campus, college, DeBruce Center, fine dining, Jayhawk, Johnny's Tavern, Massachusetts Street, McLain's Market, monuments, Naismith, natural history, nature, Northeast Kansas, politics, Spencer Museum of Art, The Oread, university, University of Kansas

Lawrence, Kansas: A Historical Tour

August 23, 2021 by Vanessa Whiteside Leave a Comment

 Disclosure: Unmistakably Lawrence sponsored this post. However, all opinions and photographs are my own.

Having lived at one time in my life in Lawrence, Kansas, I returned for a visit to study the town’s history and to experience the events surrounding Civil War on the Border. The experience helped me to better understand how significant figures in the state’s history impacted the town during a time referred to as Bleeding Kansas. Prior to the Civil War, feuds between pro-slavery Missourians and anti-slavery Kansans raged erupting in Lawrence in 1863. Confederate leader William Quantrill led a band of 400 men on horseback to attack the men and teenage boys. They burned homes and businesses to the ground. Some totals report that over 150 people were killed. Those who escaped death hid in cornfields or underground. Their accounts of that day tell the story.

Today, Lawrence is a thriving town having rebuilt itself on more than one occasion from conflict. The college town is home to the University of Kansas. Downtown businesses include eclectic eateries, breweries, boutique shopping, taverns, and bars. But many of the town’s original buildings remain as a testament to the town’s will to survive, including The Eldridge Hotel.

LODGING

THE ELDRIDGE HOTEL

When Explore Lawrence invited me to stay overnight in Lawrence to learn more about the town’s historical value, I jumped at the opportunity. I had been inside The Eldridge Hotel on more than one occasion and even hosted my college graduation there, but I had never experienced it as a hotel guest.

Originally built in 1855 and called the Free State Hotel, it was one of the tallest most beautiful buildings in town. Unfortunately, its fate was doomed. In 1856, the hotel was burned to the ground by pro-slavery forces. Later rebuilt by Colonel Eldridge it was destroyed again in an 1863 attack. Quantrill and his men rode into Lawrence and burned much of the town to the ground. Like a phoenix, the hotel rose from the ashes when it was rebuilt again.

The hotel is considered haunted. Hotel employees have seen Colonel Eldridge’s ghost sitting in an original hotel chair in storage. A photograph taken in the lobby shows a ghostly spirit standing in the lobby’s elevator. Room 506 is considered to be the most haunted guest room in the hotel and it is considered the colonel’s favorite spot. Of course, I requested room 506 for my overnight stay. Having lived in a haunted house on Kentucky Street during my college years, I was prepared to experience unexpected noises and the like. Later in the evening after returning to the room and just in time to escape a raging thunderstorm outside, the ceiling fan’s lights flickered multiple times. Was it his ghost? The next morning, I discovered that my new laptop’s battery was dead. I had charged it to full power before arriving at the hotel. Was it the ghost’s way of letting me know its presence? I’ll let you decide. Needless to say, I didn’t sleep soundly that night.

In 1932, the Bonnie and Clyde Gang stayed at the hotel and later robbed the bank across the street. They fled across state lines without issue. According to an article on The Eldridge’s website, the gang made off with over $33,000. You can read more about the hotel’s history and ongoing renovations here.

Today, the hotel continues to serve as a venue for guests who want to celebrate weddings, reunions, and private gatherings for up to 180 guests. The ballroom pictured below includes original crown molding, archways with windows, and crystal chandeliers. The hotel’s concierge wanted to show us other rooms of historical significance in the hotel, so he took us to a few private areas not open to the public.

We entered what looked to be a boiler room of sorts that included a narrow, steep staircase without a railing. It was time to scale the stairs to see Colonel Eldridge’s favorite chair first-hand. I climbed the stairs steadying myself with my hands upon each stair. There it was! A dusty ornate chair that many employees say they’ve seen Eldridge sitting on smoking his pipe. Would you want to see the chair for yourself?

All in all, my stay at The Eldridge was exceptional. The hotel stay went above and beyond to cater to my curiosity about the hotel’s history by taking me on a guided tour and telling me the background story of many of the black and white photographs hanging in the lobby. The hotel bar staff was hospitable and welcoming. My room, although haunted, offered stunning views of downtown Lawrence on the anniversary eve of Quantrill’s Raid on Lawrence. By all accounts, it was a delightful stay and one that I’d recommend anyone experience.

HISTORIC TOURS

BLEEDING KANSAS BUS TOUR

On Saturday afternoon, we gathered with others at Watkins Museum of History (1047 Massachusetts St.) for the Bleeding Kansas Bus Tour. Our first stop took us to the Robert H Miller Home and Farm (111 E. 19th St.) in east Lawrence. Miller was an Underground Railroad conductor who hid runaway slaves on his 160 acres property. Miller, a successful farmer, built the home in 1858. The Oregon Trail lies directly in front of the home making it a high-traffic area. Slaves were trying to make their way to freedom to Topeka and other northern territories like Canada. The Millers provided them temporary shelter and food.

Quantrill and his men rode up to the house with 400 men on horseback on his way from the town of Franklin to raid Lawrence on August 21, 1863. He was recognized by one of the Miller daughters. She greeted him. He and one of his men most likely stayed overnight at the home week’s prior when on a scouting mission. Quantrill and his men acknowledged the daughter and then left. They killed a nearby cow farmer and made their way to Lawrence to kill more men. Why didn’t Quantrill kill the Miller’s? Perhaps because they remembered them fondly from an earlier encounter.

Now, the home is a private residence but the homeowners often invite guided tours to visit the property.

The second stop on the bus tour took us to the Grover Barn (2819 Stonebarn Terrance), an underground railroad station on the south side of the town built in 1858. When Abolitionist leader John Brown made his final journey through Kansas, the Grover Barn is where he stopped.

During our tour, an actor playing the role of John Brown told us the story of the Grover Barn. It was there that Brown traveled with a slave family on their way to find safety and freedom. The limestone barn is considered to be one of the best-preserved Underground Railroad sites and is listed on the Lawrence Register of Historic Places.

Take a look at the walls in the photo below. The crudeness of the limestone barn’s constructions is awe-inspiring. I encourage you to visit the historic structure to see the hand-hewn wood beams up close. In 1980, the City of Lawrence repurposed the building to use as a fire station and later for storage purposes. Today, the preserved barn serves as a historical location of pre-Civil War significance and the place where Brown and freedom seekers stayed during their journey.

The final stop of the Bleeding Kansas Bus Tour took us to the Spencer Museum of Art (1301 Mississippi) on the University of Kansas campus. Our tour group had an early opportunity to view newly framed prints by African American Jacob Lawrence. The screenprint series “The Legend of John Brown,” tells the chronological story of John Brown’s life. Was he a martyr or a religious zealot? The 22 screenprints depict Brown’s life choices to lead anti-slavery troops to maintain Kansas as a free state. Oftentimes, Brown’s tactics included violence, which many say contributed to the rise of the Civil War. “The Legend of John Brown” print series collection is on display in a small gallery.

Brown was sentenced to death by hanging only minutes before the Civil War began.

Also on display was a lithograph by artist John Steuart Curry created in 1939. The famous image shows Brown’s arms outstretched with a tornado and wildfires in the distance. Some say these images were depicted as a prelude to the Civil War. Contact the museum for details regarding touring the collection. Admission to the Spencer Museum of Art is free. Plan your visit here.

WATKINS MUSEUM GUIDED TOUR

After the bus tour, I met an employee of Watkins Historical Museum (1047 Massachusetts St.) for a private tour of the iconic building. Built in 1975 by JB Watkins as the Watkins Land Mortgage and National Bank Building, it serves as an artifact of an earlier time in the town’s history.

The building’s founder was a fan of ornate architecture and the finest materials available. The building itself is a masterpiece with its marble staircases, salvaged stained glass windows, hand-carved woodwork, and marble mosaic flooring. The bank originally functioned as a place were farmers came for land loans. Later, it was donated to the city and was used as City Hall until 1970.

For the last 10 years, Watkins Historical Museum began welcoming visitors to tour the building and its permanent exhibits for free. Four smaller rotating exhibits are updated about every six months. The permanent collections’ themes range from the story of Lawrence’s history to University of Kansas basketball to pioneer life artifacts.

The space shown in the photo below is part of Watkins’ original office, which still includes his fireplace, bank vault, and shutter-covered windows. Artifacts from his wife’s contribution to the University of Kansas are included near the space. Elizabeth Watkins donated much of their wealth after JB’s death to build the Watkins Scholarship Hall and the Watkins Nurses Home. A considerable amount of the couple’s earnings were donated to the KU Endowment Association without instructions for its use.

In one corner of the museum, an authentic electric car sits on display. The Milburn Light Electric car was owned by Lawrence resident Eleanor Henley who used it to run errands in town. When you visit the car, look inside! It doesn’t have a steering wheel. How did Eleanor drive it? You’ll have to take a trip to the museum to find out.

Pictured below are two significant items from the University of Kansas’ basketball program’s history. The desk was used by James Naismith in the Robinson Gymnasium on the KU campus. It most likely was also used by Forrest “Phog” Allen. If you open the desk’s drawer, you will see handwritten locker combinations, which may have belonged to the basketball players’ lockers. The 1940s practice backboard was designed by Allen for his students to use to teach them how to arc the basketball. Other artifacts on display include a team jersey worn by Jawhawk Adrian Mitchell-Newell.

A future traveling exhibit “Encountering John Brown” will be on display at the Watkins Museum of History’s Community Room from September 4-November 6. Artist Brad Sneed’s portraits tell the story of Brown, a controversial figure who became America’s most prominent abolitionist. Individuals and groups are welcomed to visit for self-guided tours although the museum prefers to prepare for visiting students. To find out more about visiting the museum and its collections, view their Facebook page.

DINNER

FREE STATE BREWING CO.

There is no better place on Mass Street in downtown Lawrence to enjoy a meal and a craft beer than Free State Brewing Co. (636 Massachusetts St). Kansas’ original craft brewery has been serving flagship beers, rotating seasonal selections, and limited selections for decades. During my visit, I requested the John Brown Ale, but it wasn’t available. Instead, I happily settled for Free State Lager. I was happy to be back at Free State, a place I frequented on Monday $1-pint night during my college years.

Their menu has always included items made from fresh ingredients with flair. You won’t find standard pub grub at Free State. The menu options appeal to foodies who appreciate unique flavor combinations and the freshest ingredients available. We enjoyed the Filipino Egg Rolls with Sesame Chile Soy Dipping Sauce as an appetizer. For dinner, we shared the Nashville Chicken Mac and Free State Fish and Chips. Both entrees exceeded our expectations.

I would highly recommend stopping at Free State Brewing Co. for lunch or dinner during your visit to Lawrence. Although they are not hosting brewery tours at this time, you can check their Facebook events page for upcoming trivia nights or festival celebrations. Locals and visitors alike love the brewery’s vibe. Limited patio seating allows patrons to watch Mass Street happenings with a beer in hand. You may find a street performer nearby playing music.

EXPLORING MASS STREET

BUILDINGS, SHOPPING, PARKS, DRINKS

The following morning, I rose early to walk the quiet streets of downtown Lawrence before the stores opened. I navigated my way to South Park, established in 1854,  just beyond 11th and Mass Streets. It is the town’s oldest park and was a location that suffered the wrath of Quantrill’s Raid. In later years, it has served as a picturesque location for outdoor concerts, festivals, antiwar rallies, and women’s rights protests.

How could such a beautiful, green space have once been the site of devastation? It’s hard to imagine, but it’s true. On the way there, I admired the Douglas County Courthouse (1100 Massachusetts St.) for its architectural features. Construction of the building took place in 1904 with a dedication following a year later.

Later, my explorations led me to Black Stag Brewery (623 Mass St.) for a cold one.  A massive space, it also includes a covered patio. It’s the kind of place where locals strike up conversations with you.

Stop in for a beer and stay for a meal from the grill or opt for a shareable platter. Unsure what beer you want a pint of? Ask the bartender for samples. I enjoyed tastings for the Mosaic Dream IPA and 1865 Black Stag. Eventually, I committed to the Founding Fathers Tavern Tale, which seemed an appropriate choice given my mission to uncover Lawrence’s history.

When in Lawrence, I also like to revisit a few tried and true hangouts. Eight Street Taproom (801 New Hampshire St.) is an escape from the hustle of downtown and the heat of a Kansas summer day. The dark dive bar is a cool place to enjoy a beer or cocktail to the sounds of indie music and a busy billiards table. The downstairs bar opens after the sun goes down and often features live bands. It’s home to hipsters and townies who have been calling it one of their favorite bars for decades. You’ll appreciate their impressive beer collection.

CEMETERY TOUR

OAK HILL CEMETERY

Just as the evening was coming to a close, I joined a group of history fans at the Oak Hill Cemetery (1605 Oak Hill Avenue) to hear stories of early Lawerence and view the graves of victims from Quantrill’s Raid. It serves as a final burial spot for many including 81 women who were widowed after the raid. Some notable people buried were Kansas politicians. James H. Lane was the first U.S. Senator from Kansas and his grave was the first burial monument added to the cemetery (pictured below).

With flashlights in hand to guide the way after sundown, our group listened to a Watkins Museum of History curator recount the details of those who lost their lives in the raid. If you visit the cemetery, look for The Citizen’s Memorial that stands in remembrance of 50 unidentified men and boys who died during Quantrill’s Raid. To view these graves and others like it, use this map to locate Section 1 and Section 2.

DRINKS 

JOHN BROWN’S UNDERGROUND

My final stop for the evening was for craft cocktails at John Brown’s Underground (7 E 7th St). Within moments of entering this basement bar, I realized that it was unlike any “typical” college town establishment. One detail that defines it differently than other bars in the area is that John Brown’s Underground requires reservations for indoor seating.

The space transports you to a surreal environment with low lighting, mood music, and a menu that reads like an excerpt from someone’s diary. A friendly server helped me choose a cocktail recipe from a long list of options. Since it was the eve of the anniversary of Quantrill’s Raid, I chose the John Brown made from whiskey, rum, demerara sugar, and bitters. It was spirit-forward but smooth. My boyfriend opted for the Fever Dream Nova gin cocktail made with basil and mango. It came with Lemongrass Pop Rocks on the side. Both drinks included a square ice cube embossed with a chair on them. Why a chair?

Ironically, the patron on the right was wearing a white shirt with chairs on it. Coincidence?

The chair symbol is a major part of the John Brown Underground story and aesthetic. For the employees, of which many had it tattooed on their arms, it represents the chair John Brown sat on while protecting slaves on the underground railroad. For them, it represents safety, looking out for one another, and a general sense of kindness. The employees are passionate about the tavern’s mission to create a welcoming atmosphere, which is best symbolized by the chair. When enjoying time at the bar, ask your server more about it.

A wall of infused spirits.

DOWNTOWN HISTORICAL TOUR

QUANTRILL’S RAID WALKING TOUR

Intrigued about all that I had learned about Bleeding Kansas, I attended Quantrill’s Raid Walking Tour hosted by local historian John Jewell the following morning. He led about a dozen of us around downtown Lawrence starting at the Watkins History Museum and to the main of the locations where fighting and bloodshed took place during the raid. A historical marker identifies the House Building. It was the only structure left standing on that black after the raid.

During the tour, Jewell pointed to buildings that were rebuilt after that fateful date in history. A post-raid campaign was the focus of community members who wanted to rebuild a shattered community. Lawrence’s downtown district is a testament to their will to survive.

BREAKFAST

LADYBIRD DINER

Hungry for breakfast before leaving Lawrence, we stopped into Ladybird Diner (721 Massachusetts St.). Sometimes the places we stop to eat when on the road we’re not originally a part of the travel plan and they turn out to be delightful. When in Lawrence, choose to have breakfast followed by homemade pie at Ladybird Diner. We enjoyed Avocado Toast with Scrambled Eggs and Huevos Rancheros with Corn Tortillas. With room left for dessert, I selected a slice of peach pie made with latticework crust. Beyond delicious. He said, “It’s one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever had.”

We will definitely return to the diner during a return visit to Lawrence. Until then, I may have to learn how to copy the Huevos Rancheros recipe at home.

Make sure to look inside the rotating pie cabinet before choosing your selection. Warning: Your mouth will water.

BONUS HISTORICAL STOP

KANSAS STATE CAPITOL (TOPEKA)

A visit to the Kansas State Capitol (SW 8th & SW Van Buren St., Topeka) wouldn’t be complete without viewing John Steuart Curry’s “Tragic Prelude” painting on display on the second floor’s east wing featuring John Brown. This painting as well as others he did for the capitol brought criticism, so the Kansas legislature caved to public pressure and demanded that the “marble panels not be removed and thus put an end to Curry’s rotunda murals” (Source: kshs.org).  Curry did not finish the paintings and left the statehouse murals unsigned. What do you think the images in the painting represent given the turmoil of the time?

The original sword belonging to Brown is also on display in a rotunda room not far from the Kansas Constitution. It is part of a larger collection of artifacts that tell the story of when Kansas Territory was established on the brink of the Civil War. We got lucky and happen to visit the capitol minutes before a guided tour was about to begin. To view public viewing hours and tour information, visit this page. It is an impressive building worth viewing at least once in your lifetime, especially if you’re a Kansas native.

To truly understand a town’s existence, you have to dive deep into its history books. Peruse its museums. Walk its streets. I invite you to travel to Lawrence and visit these historical places as well as the ones that welcome visitors today. It’s a town near and dear to my heart, and now I appreciate it that much more.

If you’re interested in learning more about the best places to check out when in Lawrence, leave your questions below or head over to Unmistakeably Lawrence to plan your visit.

 

Filed Under: Kansas, Travel Tagged With: artifacts, bars, Bleeding Kansas, brewery, capital, cemetery, Civil War, diner, downtown, Eldridge Hotel, Free State, history, John Brown, Kansas, Lawrence, museum, Oak Hill, park, Quantrill, Topeka, University of Kansas, walking tour, Watkins

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Hello! I'm Vanessa. Welcome to One Delightful Life, a blog created to add more delight to your life with delicious recipes, travel destinations, and lifestyle improvement ideas. Thanks for exploring my blog!

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